Fat to fit plan for your feline

Felines are no different from human beings in terms of weight gain – if calorie intake is greater than calorie burned, they will put on weight. And if you have a housecat who has the choicest of foods and treats handfed to her, chances are, your kitty is…well…going to end up on the tubby side. Here’s how to handle the extra flab.

Sometime back, authorities in New Jersey found a cat weighing 20 kg wandering in streets. She was nicknamed Captain Chunk (and later renamed Princess Chunk after obvious discoveries were made) and put up for adoption. This incident brought to light the serious problem of obesity in cats the world over.

Some studies suggest that almost 25 percent of housecats may be overweight; meaning that they are 15–20 percent over their ideal body weights. This figure is not hard to believe since we tend to indulge our cats with free feeding, calorie laden food and endless treats. Additionally, lack of exercise, neutering and ageing contribute further to this problem. A small percentage may become obese due to hypothyroidism, but this is rare.

First things first

So, how do you find out if your cat is overweight? Cats are unlikely to jump happily onto the weighing scales, so the best method is to weigh yourself with your pet in your arms and then again without, and make the deduction. On an average, housecats weigh between 4.5 and 5.5 kg. Of course, certain breeds will weigh more, so your vet is the best person to decide. Ideally, your cat will have a thin layer of fat under its skin, but that should not prevent you from feeling her ribs.

The health problems with obesity

Obesity is a serious condition in cats; one that often goes unnoticed. It is often diagnosed only when pet owners take cats in for a related condition. Some of the problems that stem from obesity include diabetes mellitus, lameness (caused by arthritis or muscle injuries), an increase in the incidence of skin conditions (probably because the cat cannot reach all its parts to groom properly), and serious problems of the heart and lung. One study found that overweight cats are twice as likely to die during middle age (anywhere between 6 and 12 years) than other normal cats.

A good news!

But here’s the good news: unlike in the case of humans, where we are constantly battling temptation and weakening will power, cats are fed by us. We control their diets to a large extent and we should exercise this power judiciously.

The kitty weight-loss plan

If your vet suspects a medical condition, he may prescribe a blood or urine test but otherwise the treatment for obesity is broadly along the following lines.

Reduce calorie intake

• Switch gradually from free feeding (topping the cat’s bowl anytime of the day) to 2-3 fixed meals a day.


• If the cat is fed wet food from a can or home prepared food, make the change gradually to an age appropriate, vet prescribed dry food, which is not only more nutritious and lower in calories, but also safeguards your cat’s teeth.


• If your cat is used to eating large quantities of food (think of Garfield chugging lasagna) - rather than abruptly reducing the quantity, switch to a lower calorie food of a similar volume initially, so your pet doesn’t protest too much.


• Snack hazards: show your love for your cat in ways other than food treats and avoid feeding your pet scraps from the table. This will also prevent begging and stealing of food.


• Account for metabolic slowdown due to age, neutering or change of environment (moving from bungalow to an apartment).


• Always consult your veterinary doctor before starting a weight loss programme for your cat.

Exercise your cat

• Play ‘catch’ or ‘predator’ with your cat.


• Take her for a walk on a leash (gives them a taste of the outdoors too).


• Get two kittens rather than one, so that your cat will have a playmate (this may not work if you bring a companion for an older cat).


• Go slow, be patient and realistic – with the help of your doctor, set targets.

Another interesting finding is that overweight pets often belong to overweight households, so this may be a good time to evaluate your whole family’s eating habits and switch to a healthier lifestyle for all!

Diet for your senior kitty

As our cats get older, it is very important to provide them with a good and healthy diet. Here are a few tips to choose the best diet for your ageing kitty.

• Good feeding plan. Setting a good feeding plan throughout their lives is the best way to maintain a happy and healthy cat who lives a happy and fit old age.


• Choose high quality food designed for senior cats. As cats get older they are far less active and their energy decreases so they do not require the same amount of food that they needed when they were younger. Some fat is needed in the diet but this should be reduced although not totally cut out. Senior cat food takes this into consideration and provides them with the vitamins, nutrients and fat that they require.


• Always choose food that your cat eats and enjoys. As they get older cats often lose some of their teeth and their gums may not be quite as strong and healthy as when they were younger. So, choose a diet which they can eat properly.


• Give protein to maintain their muscle tone and immune system. Beef, poultry, fish or lamb is preferable and better than protein from sources such as wheat or corn. A cat's system can use meat-based protein far better than plant-based protein. Approximately one-thirds of the diet should be made up of meat-based food and therefore also provide about one-thirds of their required calories.


• Provide two or three small meals a day for a senior cat than one large meal. If you are using canned food, always remove the uneaten portion after 30 minutes to prevent the food from spoiling. Some cats, who are not inclined to be obese, can be given a little food to nibble on during the day. If you have younger cats in the house it might be wise to feed your senior animals away so that the younger animals cannot reach it.


• No to treats and table scraps. It is not a good idea to give your cat, of any age, table scraps or regular treats.


• Provide your cat with fresh water at all times – especially cats who may have kidney problems.


• Watch the litter tray. It is important to watch their litter tray to make sure that their waste is not too loose as there may be insufficient fibre in the diet. If this continues for any length of time, always consult your veterinarian who will give your cat a full examination and make suggestions regarding a suitable diet to maintain good health.

(Joan Henderson is based in Australia and she has judged furry felines in many other countries including USA, Bermuda, Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong, Philippines and New Zealand)

Keep your kitty happy and healthy in her golden years

As pet parents, it can be really difficult for us to face the fact that the rambunctious, young kitten we got home few years back, has now grown into a somber senior cat. It’s now that your kitty needs more attention, love and care. Here’s how to keep her healthy and happy in these years.

In cats, the biological age depends on various factors like the quality of living conditions, her diet, general state of health and her genetic background. Cats over eight years are generally considered senior. Ageing can have the following effects on cats.

• With ageing, cats become susceptible to arthritis. This restricts their movement and makes it difficult for them to perform activities like climbing and jumping, which they would earlier perform with ease. 
  
  


• The diet needs of cats change as they age. Their body’s ability to digest fats and proteins decreases which may lead to weight loss, if sufficient amount of fats and proteins are not supplied through diet. Your cat might also eat less due to the loss of her sense of taste, smell or interest in food. On the other hand, some senior cats are prone to weight gain due to the lack of mobility and decline in the body’s metabolic rate. 
  
  


• Like humans, ageing also affects the mental agility of cats, thereby causing the loss of memory, cognition and degeneration of brain cells. Look out for signs of age-related deterioration of brain cells like excessive meowing, pacing around in circles, aimlessly wandering around the house and avoidance of social interaction. 
  
  


• The skin loses its elasticity and is prone to skin infections and inflammation in senior cats. The claws become thick, overgrown and brittle. 
  
  


• Ageing weakens the immune system and that makes older cats sensitive to common illnesses and infections. 
  
  


• Dental diseases are quite common in senior cats and often cause pain and discomfort while eating. 
  
  


• Eyesight and hearing power diminishes with ageing. Older cats also show discolouration and cloudiness of eyes.

Though there is nothing we can do to suppress the aforementioned signs of ageing, we can surely do our bit to slow down the process of ageing, by taking proper care of our kitty. Here are some of the steps we can take to ensure that our senior cat leads a comfortable life in her golden years.

• Provide your cat with nutritious food. The diet requirements of cats change as they age. Consult your vet to know more about the diet needs of your cat. Also older cats have increased water requirements and can easily get dehydrated. So, make sure you provide your kitty with sufficient drinking water. 
  
  


• Keep the food, water bowl and litter boxes in places that are easily accessible and your cat does not have to struggle to jump and climb up to reach for them. You can also help your cat climb up to her favourite spot by placing stools and cushions as steps. 
  
  


• Cats can groom themselves well but an older cat would need some external support in keeping herself clean and tidy. Give your cat regular brushing to remove loose hairs and detangle matted hair. Brushing also stimulates blood circulation and sebaceous gland secretion ensuring healthy skin and coat. Regular cleaning of teeth is essential to ward off dental problems. Occasionally, you can also give your cat a refreshing bath. She would surely come out feeling more youthful and energetic after a warm bath. 
  
  


• A daily dose of moderate exercise cannot only control weight gain but also improve the physical and mental fitness of cats. You can take short walks with your kitty or play fun games with your cats. 
  
  


• Senior cats love being in a familiar environment and are less adaptable to changes in their environment. New places and constant changes in the surroundings put them under stress. Maintain familiarity in your kitty’s environment and avoid changing places of things like your cat’s food bowl or the bed where she rests. 
  
  


• Observe for changes in your cat’s eating habits, sleeping patterns and behaviour and seek the help of vet if you notice something unusual. Have regular health checkups with the vet. This would help detect health problems at an early stage and prevent them from growing into something serious. 
  
  


• Provide your cat with all the love and emotional support she needs to be happy in her senior years.

Ageing is inevitable and we cannot do anything to prevent our pets from ageing but it is possible for us, the pet owners to help our pets age gracefully and keep them healthy and happy in their golden years.

Ask the expert..Nov-Dec 10

Q: My cat Oliver is a two-month-old Persian. Please advice about cat training and flea prevention.
- Asma Nadeem Ahmed, Bangalore

 

A: Dr KG Umesh: Early socialisation is the process by which a cat learns to relate appropriately to people, other cats and to her environment. The 'sensitive period' for socialisation lies between two and seven weeks of age in kittens. Getting the socialisation of your kitten right in the first few months of life ensures your kitten will develop a secure, well-adjusted personality. It also improves the quality of the cat-owner relationship and is very important for preventing behaviour problems. As with all training, it should be kind and based on positive reinforcement, rewarding correct action and ignoring all unwanted behaviours. Effective training should contain a combination of information (what you want the cat to do), motivation (a reason for the cat to do it) and timing (when to give the reward for a good action).

Flea control must be done in her environment before treating infested cat. Your veterinarian will recommend a suitable de-fleaing agent and will advise you on an effective flea-eradication programme that is safe for cats. Always follow the directions carefully, and remember to treat other pets in the household as well. Remove all of your cat's bedding and wash it well (hot wash cycle), along with the box or basket. Don't forget to vacuum thoroughly around the carpets and furniture.

Groom him beautiful!

Even though cats spend a lot of time licking and cleaning themselves, they still need regular grooming to remove loose hair, prevent matting and keep the skin free from diseases. Here's how to do that.

Step by step instructions for grooming cats

• Clean the cat's ears – Put a few drops of solution in your kitty's ears and wipe out with a cotton ball. If you notice excess waxy buildup, check for ear mites.


• Comb kitty if he has long hair.


• Wet cat thoroughly – If you don't get the cat wet down to the skin, he will not get clean.


• Apply shampoo – Apply to cat's neck first, then lather all over. Rinse thoroughly!


• Conditioner – If you opt for conditioner, use only a rinse-out type. Leave-in conditioners can cause diarrhea because your kitty licks himself to groom.


• Towel dry – If you have a longhaired cat, you may need a couple of towels for this step.


• Comb or brush – Combs work best for longhaired cats, brushes for shorthaired cats.


• Blowdrier – If you are blowdrying a longhaired cat, stop about halfway through and comb the cat again. This will speed up the drying process.


• Final comb through – If you have a shorthaired cat, you can skip the blowdrying, but towel dry your kitty well and then give them a good brushing.

Tips to follow

• Brushing too hard can roughen the hair cuticle, exposing its cortex and leaving the hair porous and frayed. If you can hear the brush, you are brushing too hard!


• Take your pets to a professional groomer or a vet for nail clipping as you can cut the quick- a vein present in their nails which can then bleed and cause pain.


• While cleaning ears, do not go deep into the ears.

Toygers: Mini tigers to love and cuddle

Those who are enchanted by tigers can bring home a Toyger with looks of a tiger but size like a toy and a heart of gold

Dressed to kill

Toygers were created to look like Toy Tigers. They are short haired, completely domestic cat derived fromcarefully selected domestic shorthairs and pedigreed cats like the Bengal. Medium-sized, Toygers are strong with long and muscular tail. Their coat is short and thick and soft to touch. Their colour is orange/tan background with dark stripes that reminds us of beautiful and athletic tiger.

The recognition

Toygers were recognised in TICA (The International Cat Association) for registration only in 1993 and worked up from Preliminary New Breed, Advanced New Breed and finally Championship status in May of 2008.

Extremely lovable

They are very lovable and get along well with children and dogs. They are very intelligent and make wonderful companion animals. They love to play, love lap time with their humans and enjoy social activities such as fetch and tug-of-war. They are athletic and love to run, climb and play with their human companion as well as other animals and children.

Kitty care

They are easily trained to walk on a leash if started at an early age. They must be kept indoors as they might find someone else to go home with or may be a bit hard on wildlife with their excellent hunting skills.

Grooming needs

Toygers are very sturdy, healthy breed of cat who require minimal grooming. Most Toygers enjoy bath time since they love to play in water. Their shiny (glittered) coats feel silky and plush to the touch.

Breeder tip

I would highly recommend a Toyger to anyone looking for a loving, playful companion. They may not be for everyone since they are very active and playful. They also love to talk and will carry on a complete conversation with you. They are an absolute joy to live with and the most amazing cat I have ever owned!

(Kim Chenault is TICA – LH/SHJudge in training and she owns a cattery – www.KCsJungleBabes.com)

Healthy bites

• Don’t ever give raw egg whites to your kitty as it contains avidin, which neutralizes biotin (an essential vitamin) making it unavailable to the cat.
  
  


• Don’t boil fish—you will destroy the nutrition. 
  
  


• Don’t feed dry food to cats having bladder problems. 
  
  


• Don’t feed a cat with dog food. 
  
  


• Don’t give a cat more than two egg yolks a week. 
  
  


• Don’t feed poultry bones as these are small and splintery and could choke the cat. 
  
  


• Don’t give your cat alcohol, however, small the quantity… except when administered under veterinary advise as an antidote to anti-freeze poisoning.

(Joan Henderson is based in Australia and she has judged furry felines in many other countries including the USA, Bermuda, Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong, Philippines and New Zealand)

Fun ‘n’ frolic

Kittens love to play. They love to pounce on things and other kittens. Here are a few tips to make playing fun for them

 

• If they are separated from their siblings, they must be provided with small toys that skitter and move when they pounce on them and interactive play when you are home, such as a Cat Dancer.


• Play with them interactively a minimum of twice a day in prolonged play.


• Leave other toys out when you are tired or unavailable.


• Anything on a string so you can make it jump is wonderful, but the kitten will tear it apart, so make sure it is safe for them as they do so.


• All our cats loved the ping pong ball in the ring and the Cat Dancer. Many are very fancy such sparkly Mylar crinkle balls, and some kittens definitely prefer the sparkly things.
  
   


• It is good to rotate toys out of their sight for a few weeks at a time to keep a toy from getting old and boring.


• Cats love to knead. If they have claws they will scratch. Immediately give them a scratching post or place.


• You can buy a cat tree.


• As they love to climb, especially as they get older, some form of tower or tree is recommended. Spray it with catnip to make it desirable at once, and take your kitten to it every time s/he scratches.

(Kiturah Humphrey, featured columnist of Cats & Kittens, is a retire physician. From Siberian Gatos Cattery in the US, she is responsible for cattery policies and choices that include a programme to eliminate Corona Virus, HCM, Bartonella, Toxoplasmosis, etc.)

Minding his own business…

Cats are easy to maintain, particularly in matters of house training. They like to bury their waste, are fastidiously clean, and are creatures of strong habit. These factors make house training very easy to achieve.

 

Natural way to deal with nature’s call

By the time kittens are seven or eight weeks old, they will have learnt to tidy up after themselves. Many experts believe that they learn this by watching their mothers or siblings. That’s why you will almost never find a cat excreting near his sleeping or food area.

Others believe that this behaviour is more instinctive and stems from a desire to conceal their scent from predators or dominant cats. In a home, the cat perceives the human to be dominant, and covers up his litter to avoid offending our sensibilities.

Either way, if your kitten is around two months old, he has probably already got into the habit of covering up, or if younger, will just need to be shown how by you, his new mother!

Showing the way

If you prefer your cat to use a garden or the outdoors, make sure he has constant access to it. A cat door or flap is invaluable, and once fixed, the cat will take to it in no time at all.

If your pet is a house cat, I would strongly recommend the use of kitty litter in a litter box, as this desiccates and deodourises the urine and faeces.

A few things to keep in mind while training a cat:

• Keep the litter box in a secluded area. Cats are usually shy about their business.


• Keep the litter box in one place. They don’t appreciate constant moves.


• Place a newspaper soaked in the urine in the litter box, to draw the kitten towards it. They love its sandy texture and this satisfies their natural urge to dig and bury.


• You could use commercially available litter boxes, or make one with a clean milk crate or plastic tub. Just make sure the cat has enough room, and doesn’t accidentally paw the litter over the sides of the tub.


• Restrict access to other tempting, but undesirable places to eliminate, and discourage kitty when he attempts to use another place. (Punishing cats once the deed is done is rarely effective).

Litter box care

• One of the most common reasons for failure of litter box training is not keeping the litter box clean enough. Scoop out clumps of dried litter at least once a day (twice if two cats must use the same box). Top up the litter so that it is sufficient for the cat’s needs.


• Once a week you could empty out the tray altogether and replace it with fresh litter after washing the box with a mild detergent and drying thoroughly. Cats love a fresh, clean litter box.


• Make sure the box is ventilated so that the litter has a chance to dry completely.


• Try not to change the brand of litter, and if you must, gradually introduce the new brand along with the old. Cat litter is available in most pet stores and in some departmental stores as well.

You will find that once your pet has learnt where his toilet is, and if it meets his needs of hygiene, privacy and constancy, he will almost never want to eliminate elsewhere.

Cat chat Understanding feline language

Body language, behaviour, and vocalisations are keys to understanding the feline mind. You and your cat might speak different languages, but you can still communicate with each other.

Indicators such as the look in your cat’s eyes, tone of her voice, position of her ears, and motion of her tail can provide important clues that reveal her feelings and intentions. You can learn to ‘read’ these signals, so you’ll get a good idea of what’s on your cat’s mind.

Vocalising: Something to talk about

You’ll learn a lot from your cat’s wide vocabulary of chirps and meows. You’ll know when it’s time to get up (at least in your cat’s opinion), when your cat’s feeling affectionate, or when your cat’s feeling threatened or in pain.

Meow is an all-purpose word. This can be a greeting (Hey, how ya doin?), a command (‘I want up, I want down, more food now’), an objection (‘Touch me at your own risk’), an announcement (‘Here’s your mouse’). Some cats even walk around the house meowing to themselves.

Chirps and trills are how a mother cat tells her kittens to follow her. Kitty wants you to follow her, usually to her food bowl. If you have more than one cat, they will often converse with each other this way.

The purr is a sign of contentment. Cats purr whenever they’re happy, even while they’re eating. Sometimes, however, a cat may purr when she’s anxious or sick, using the purr as a way to comfort himself, like a child sucking her thumb.

Growling, hissing and spitting indicate a cat who is annoyed, frightened, angry or aggressive. Leave this cat alone.

The yowl or howl is a loud, drawn-out meow. Your cat is in some kind of distress—stuck in a closet, looking for you, in pain. In un-neutered and un-spayed cats, it’s part of the mating behaviour (and very annoying). Elderly cats sometimes suffer from cognitive disorder (dementia) and may howl because they’re disoriented. Screaming means your cat is in terrible pain.

Chattering, chittering, twittering is the strange noise your cat makes when she’s sitting in the window watching birds or squirrels. Some experts think that this is an exaggeration of the ‘killing bite’ when a cat grabs her prey by the neck and works her teeth through the bones to snap them.

Body language

A cat gets her whole body into the act when she’s communicating.

Does your cat’s back arch up to meet your hand when you pet her? This means she’s enjoying this contact with you. Does she shrink away under your slightest touch? Save the petting for later: she’s not interested right now.

Pay attention to her eyes, ears, body and tail—they’re all part of the story.

Ears

• Forward: alert, interested, happy


• Backward, sideways, flat (‘airplane ears’): irritable, angry, frightened


• Swivelling: attentive, listening to every little sound

Eyes

• Pupils constricted: offensively aggressive; content


• Pupils dilated: nervous, submissive (somewhat dilated); defensively aggressive (fully dilated); playful

Tail

• Erect, fur flat: alert, inquisitive, happy


• Fur standing on end: angry, frightened


• Held very low or tucked between legs: insecure, anxious


• Thrashing back and forth: agitated. The faster the tail, the madder the cat


• Straight up, quivering: excited, really happy. If your cat is not neutered, he/she could be getting ready to spray something!

Body

• Back arched, fur standing on end: frightened, angry


• Back arched, fur flat: welcoming your touch


• Lying on back, purring: very relaxed, may be asking for a tummy rub


• Lying on back, growling, upset, ready to strike

Rubbing

When your cat rubs her chin and body against you, she’s telling you she loves you, right? Well, sort of. What she’s really doing is marking her territory. You’ll notice that she also rubs the chair, the door, her toys, everything in sight. She’s telling everyone that this is her stuff, including you. But she does love you, too.

Kneading

In the cat world, this is called ‘making biscuits,’ because the cat works her paws on a soft surface as if she’s kneading bread dough. This is a holdover from kittenhood, when a nursing kitten massaged her mother’s teats to make milk flow. When your cat does this, she is really happy.

The Flehman response

You’ve surely noticed times when your cat, while sniffing your shoe perhaps, lifts her head, opens her mouth slightly, curls back her lips, and squints her eyes. She’s not making a statement about how your shoe smells, she’s gathering more information.

Your cat’s sense of smell is so important to her that she actually has an extra olfactory organ that very few other creatures have—the Jacobson’s organ. It’s located on the roof of her mouth behind her front teeth and is connected to the nasal cavity.

When your cat gets a whiff of something really fascinating, she opens her mouth and inhales so that the scent molecules flow over the Jacobson’s organ. This intensifies the odour and provides more information about the object she’s sniffing. What she does with that information, well, we’ll never know.

In the mood

Is your cat playing, meditating, or having a bad day? Here’s how you can tell:

Content: Sitting or lying down, eyes half-closed, narrow pupils, tail mostly still, ears forward, purring. A really happy cat will often knead on a soft surface. 

Playful: Ears forward, tail up, whiskers forward, pupils somewhat dilated. Playing is hunting behaviour; your cat may stalk her prey (a toy, a housemate, you), then crouch down with her rear end slightly raised. A little wiggle of the butt, then … pounce! Kitty grabs her prey, bites it, wrestles it the floor, and kicks it with her hind feet. Her toy is now dead.

Irritated, over-stimulated: Pupils dilating, ears turning back, tail twitching or waving. The cat may growl or put her teeth on you as a warning to cease and desist. Intense play can quickly turn to over stimulation in some cats, resulting in biting and scratching.

Nervous, anxious: Ears sideways or back, pupils dilating, tail low or tucked between legs. The cat may slink through the house close to the floor, looking for somewhere to hide. He may turn her face to the wall to shut the world out.

Frightened, startled: Think Halloween cat. Ears back and flat against head, whiskers back, back arched, fur standing on end, tail erect or low. May yowl, growl, hiss, and spit.

Defensive: Crouched position, ears flattened, whiskers back, tail between legs or wrapped around body, pupils dilated. May meow loudly, growl, hiss and spit.

Angry, aggressive: Ears back, pupils very constricted, tail up or down with fur standing on end. An aggressive cat will stare down the other cat and growl or yowl until the other cat gives way. Cats don’t really want to fight; they prefer standoffs, but this can progress to fighting if one of the cats doesn’t back down.

(The article is contributed by Humane Society of the Unites States (HSUS). Established in 1954, HSUS seeks a humane and sustainable world for all animals; www.hsus.org)

Ask the expert..Sep-Oct 10

Q. Please do advice about behavioural abnormalities in cats.
– Ashimi Das, Guwahati

 

A: Dr KG Umesh: Cats make good pets because their needs are simple and they like the security of their own home, from which they can explore their own territory and hunt. In a few respects, cats are fussy - they can be fussy about their food and even more so about getting wet. Cats are known to be solitary hunters when their way of life allows it and therefore, hunting is a normal, instinctive behaviour in cats. A comprehensive history including behavioural assessment, history and diagnostic tests are required to identify what is really a behavioural problem in cats. For example, a cat who is urinating inappropriately could have urinary tract problem or may have joint problem that makes the cat difficult to use the litter box. Cats who are deprived of social interaction with humans or other kittens during socialization period may not be able to develop normal social relationships and may demonstrate behavioural problems. These problems include rejection of or aggression toward humans (especially children), aggression toward other cats, failure to mate successfully, and rejection. Cats who begin eliminating outside the litter box on a regular basis after being trained may do so for many reasons including illness, anxiety, an aversion to the type or location of the box or litter, or a preference for another location or litter. Intact males who show urine-marking (spraying) behaviour may require neutering. An owner who appreciates the natural, instinctive behaviour of their cat such as his body language or when he is showing sexual behaviour is much better equipped to react appropriately in any situation. Proper socialization, handling, good care and understanding normal cat behaviour will prevent many of these behavioural problems.

Balinese kitties Beautiful mutants

Exotic, beautiful, lovable and playful...the blue-eyed Balinese cat will become the cynosure of your eyes if you happen to have one at home.

 

Beautiful me...

Though Balinese kitties have been derived from the Siamese cat, they have a single semi-long silky coat and plumed tail. Their stunning blue eyes take the breath away. The kittens are all born white and the main coat colour remains cream except in the darker points especially seal when their coats can be darker all over. They are available in all the same colour points: seal, chocolate, blue, lilac, cream and red. They may also have tabby, lynx, spotted and torti points in the above colours.

Kitten care...

Kittens should not leave their mother until 10 or 12 weeks of age with at least a vaccination for injection against Feline Flu. Feed them three times per day with fresh water available all the time. Give them a small cosy bed in a safe spot away from other animals. Provide a clean litter tray as well. Besides, interact, communicate and cuddle as much as possible.

Groom me little...

As the coat is single layered, it does not tend to knot or cause fur balls, and brushing is not really necessary, just gentle stroking will release dead fur. You can also use a very soft brush.

Love to play...

Kittens love to play with fluffy things, small toy mice, feathers, balls, ribbons, etc. They will run around and love to climb up on high tables and shelves.

Love to live with me...

Many people who are allergic to other cats find that they are not allergic to Balinese cats as they do not shed their fur much. Also, they are not as aloof as many breeds and love to be with people. They are inquisitive and will want to watch what you are doing. As soon as you sit down you will have at your knees to smooch and go to sleep.

I am different...

Many Balinese kittens will learn to fetch their toys and bring them back to you when thrown. They will talk to you, but are not as demanding or noisy as the Siamese. The only exception is when a female is in season, she will then cry most of the time!

I am healthy...

As they have not been genetically changed to any extent, they are healthy breed. All cats must be neutered at four months unless the owner is a registered breeder.

(Rosalind Meadmore has owned, shown and bred this beautiful breed for 10 years and enjoys promoting the Balinese Cat. Check her cattery at www.kutiebalinese.net)

Healthy bytes for your kitty

With good medical care, routine check-ups, good nutrition and lots of love your cat will live a long and happy life. Here are a few preventative health measures designed to keep your cat fit and healthy:

All sleep and no play makes Tom a dull boy

• It is important to keep your cat fit by seeing that he gets regular exercise.


• Simple toys such as ping-ping balls or a toy spider made of pipe-cleaners can keep your cat from destroying your home out of boredom, besides keeping away unwanted fat.


• Be sure all the toys you give your cat are well made and safe. They should be intriguing enough to encourage play, but not a size or shape that could easily be swallowed.

(Joan Henderson is based in Australia and she has judged furry felines in many other countries including the USA, Bermuda, Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong, Philippines and New Zealand)

Declawing: Unnatural for your kitty

Declawing serves one purpose and one purpose only – it makes it convenient for someone who doesn’t understand cat behaviour or who doesn’t wish to learn how to live with a cat, to have a cat in their life.

Why are claws important?

Cats’ claws are important, as they are needed to help the kitty maintain his balance, mark his territory and defend himself. Yes, Kitty uses his claws to ‘scratch’ (sometimes this means your furniture). You may ask yourself, “Why does he use the furniture or the floor when a good scratching post is sitting unused in the corner?” There are several reasons:

• Your scent is on the furniture. Kitty is placing his scent over yours. He is claiming you as his property, his territory. After all, it is your lap waiting for him at night, and your hand that feeds him. This scratching is actually honouring you. Kitty cannot understand why you are so upset with him. After all, every time he head-bumps you, he is also placing his scent on you. And you don’t get upset about that…do you?


• Furniture is stable. It doesn’t wobble. Go over to the cat scratcher and knock it with your hand lightly. See it wobble? Stabilize it and the cat will use it.


• Cats scratch also to stretch their backs, if the objects can’t handle their weight, they will find something that does.

What is declawing?

Declawing is the process when the vet surgically removes the toenail of the cat along with the last joint where the claw would grow. The removal can be done by a scalpel, or by a laser. It is major surgery and a painful procedure for the cat.

There is a newer procedure being used called a flexor tendonectomy. This surgery leaves the claws intact but cuts off the tendon that allows the cat to sheathe and unsheathe his claws. But again, this is still a painful procedure and should only be performed in the most extreme of circumstances. After this procedure, your cat’s claws will need to be routinely trimmed.

Why not to go for declawing?

Declawing should never be something done to save a stick of furniture, or to stop the shredding of drapes. Declawing a cat is unnatural for the cat and not without risks (that don’t often show up right away). There is nothing routine about the surgery, which is why following the surgery; most vets will not release the cat back to the worried owner for 24-48 hours. This is to spare the cat owner the agony of watching their cat bang his head against the cage in pain and confusion that follows the surgery.

In rare instances, declawing may need to be performed such as when the cat belongs to an elderly person with a bleeding disorder or paper-thin skin.

What problems can occur by declawing?

• Infection can set in if the incision isn’t properly sealed.


• The cat can turn aggressive if the right pain control measures weren’t used during and after surgery.


• In some cases, the claws can grow back or the paws become infected.


• After a declaw is performed, the paws will stay tender for about a week or two.


• Litter box filler should be soft, shredded paper, rabbit food (rabbit pellets). Litter box accidents and using the floor or peeing on soft objects (like beds or clean clothes) often occur once a cat has been declawed.


• Cats need their claws to defend themselves. Take this weapon away from them, and they will resort to biting.

What are the options to declawing?

• There are vinyl nail covers for a cat’s claws. The casings fit over the nail then are sealed in place. The cat can scratch and leave no marks.


• Use multiple scratching posts.


• Use clicker training to train your cat to scratch in the right places.


• Use cat condos.


• Clip the nails yourself.


• Use clear sheets of acrylic on the corners of our couches. These corners are covered with the extra fabric that comes with any sofa and are virtually unnoticeable. They work great to stop the cats from clawing.

How to take care of your declawed cat?

If you have your cat declawed, your cat should never be let outside, or dumped off in a shelter because of behaviour problems. If your cat does develop behaviour problems due to declawing, take responsibility for your actions and get him to a vet immediately.

The unfolding of our sweet felines

In the last issue, you read how domestic cats evolved with time. Here are the differences that set them apart from their wild counterparts.

Our cats had to adapt and change themselves in order to fully exploit their relationship with humans, and several key differences that set the domestic cat apart from his wild cousins include:

Communal living: While most cat species are solitary, domestic cats, like lions, are capable of sharing resources and forming bonds with each other. Female cats will even cooperate together to rear kittens, pooling litters into a group with the benefits of two mums to feed and protect them.

Fertility: Our pets display different breeding behaviour from their ancestors, which only have one or two breeding seasons a year; domestic cats can breed all year round and produce larger litters.

Appearance: Cats in a domestic setting no longer had a need for camouflaging coats and indeed the more unusual colours and patterns would have been more prized and tended to, giving them a better chance of passing on their genes. An increasing number of genetic mutations gave us solid colours, such as reds, torties, chocolates, colourpoints, bicolours, long coats, curly coats and a great many more.

Different on the inside: Not all of the differences are external, and domestic cats have evolved a significantly longer intestinal tract. This adaptation allows them to digest a greater range of foods and therefore take advantage of many things they come across in our kitchens. This means they find it easier to gain some energy from cereals, although it would take a few more great leaps of evolution before they would be happy tucking into a bowl of muesli!

I’ve been headshrunk!: It may be embarrassing for cats to admit, but domestication caused their brains to become smaller. It is difficult to say whether this is due to an all round downsizing, but it may be that with the safety of human protection there is less for the brain to do.

Neotony: This means that cats have retained kittenish behaviour into adulthood. This is partly because humans favoured cats who were more vocal, playful and affectionate, but also because cats extended the use of behaviours from their times living in groups as kittens to help them interact when living communally as adults. No self-respecting adult wild cat would be caught milk-treading!

Plus ça change: In spite of all these differences, domestic cats are still very close to their wild cousins and there are many things to remind us of this. Cats evolved in hot deserts and even shaggy-coated cats living for generations in cold climate still have adaptations to heat, such as ability to concentrate urine and drink comparatively little. Hunting instincts are hard-wired and an essential feline characteristic, even when they are redirected to toy mice. The preference for running water that sees many cats leaping up to the bathroom sink when their owner picks up the toothbrush harks back to a survival instinct to avoid unhealthy stagnant pools. Conveniently for us the instinct to bury faeces has not disappeared and draws our pets to the litter tray. Affectionate cheek rubbing is a behaviour wild cats use to mark territory. However, there are some wild behaviours we would rather our pets didn’t cling on to, such as territorial urine marking; some of the things we class as problem behaviour are just cats still acting out their wild sides.

Thanks to that unique symbiotic relationship with the human species the cat has evolved in a unique direction to become one of the most widespread and successful species on the entire planet. While many other cat species are endangered, domestic cats are extremely numerous and have conquered every continent even joining expeditions to the Antarctic. It reminds us of what amazing creatures we have the privilege of sharing our homes with.

(Anthony Nichols has been showing cats for about 20 years, starting with non-pedigrees, and breeding for about ten years. He has bred Devon Rex and Singapuras, but mainly focuses on breeding LaPerms in a range of colours, particularly the reds, creams, torties, chocolates and colourpoints.)

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Did you know?

• Miacids, weasel-like, primitive, prototype carnivores, gave rise to cats, dogs, raccoons and bears.


• One common ancestor passed on a genetic anomaly to all living cats that prevents them from tasting sweetness.


• There are distinctive differences between the different branches of the feline family tree: cats from the Americas have one less chromosome, only the big cats can roar and Cheetahs’ claws are uniquely non-retractable.


• Archaeological evidence shows that 3000 years ago, a parallel domestication of cats occurred in the ancient cities of Pakistan’s Indus Valley. Centuries later, trade routes opened and the two groups of cats mixed.


• Although it is often stated that killing a cat in ancient Egypt was punishable to death, they were also bred for ritual sacrifice.


• Jungle cats (Felis Chaus) were also present in the Egyptian temples and could have interbred with other cats.


• The ‘Founder Effect’: the first individual cats to arrive in a new place passed on traits to their offspring that became more common in the new populations than they were in the original populations. For example, poldactyly or extra digits, is disproportionately common in east coast America.


• Cat colours or patterns are most common in the area of the world where the original mutation took place, for example, the highest density of colourpoints is found in Asia.

Hairballs who likes them?

Cats love to clean and groom themselves...but in the process they can develop harmful hairballs. Here’s more on how to prevent hairballs.

What are hairballs?

Trichobezoar or hairball is a common phenomenon of cats. Sometimes, a cat may produce noises, which sound like coughing, they will heave and lower their head and vomit a soggy mess. These are hairballs.

How do hairballs occur?

Cats clean themselves by licking. The tongue is equipped with rasps that capture loose fur that needs to come out. When the cat is young, he does not know how to spit loose fur from the rasps of the tongue, which then occurs due to swallowing actions. Thus hair is swallowed. Hair is indigestible, so what goes down must either pass along with the feces or come back up. Too much hair going down produces hair coming back up - hence hairballs.

How is it harmful?

If a cat is unable to rid himself of gross accumulations of hair by vomiting, the hair may block the intestines, a medical emergency which could result in death if not alleviated, usually by surgery.

Which cats are more prone?

Obviously long haired cats are more likely to form hairballs. Older cats loose the extreme raspage of their tongue, and thus pull less fur off and swallow it but they may be unable to adequately clean themselves.

How to treat hairballs?

The treatment for either hairballs, or an older cat who can no longer groom adequately is to help your cat with grooming. Teach your cat to love being groomed by you by talking softly to him, being careful not to pull the fur, and rewarding your cat after grooming.

How to groom kittens?

Young kittens must inspect everything, usually with their mouths. Like babies, they are easily distractable. Groom your kitten with two inexpensive plastic fine tooth combs. As soon as you start grooming, your kitten will sieze it for inspection and chew it in a few moments. Shift to the other comb and get some work done till the kitten is done inspecting the first comb. Then he will release that comb and seize the new thing, and chew on it. Recover the first comb and use it to groom till the distraction of the second comb chewing is done, and the kitten inspects the new thing (which is the first comb). In this fashion it is quite possible to get an entire combing job done.

Gradually the kitten will be less interested and stop worrying about the combs. When you have reached the stage at which he no longer impulsively bites the comb, you can shift to metal combs. By not reprimanding the kitten for biting the comb, you are teaching him that it is okay to relax and not to worry about being groomed.

What are the tools for grooming?

A good tool for grooming and teaching cats to like being groomed is a rubber brush. A fine tooth metal comb can be used to comb out mats if they are small and to comb out fleas. Scissors should be used to cut out mats that will not groom out easily. But here’s a word of caution: unless you have a very calm cat, have another person steady the cat while you use sharply pointed objects like scissors on him.

Another important specialized tool for eliminating undercoat is called by the brand name ‘Furminator’. It is a rake that really penetrates and takes off fur very well. This tool should be used on heavily shedding cats of any hair length, and any cat who gets hairballs. It is a good tool for all cats during shedding season.

Thus, proper grooming can help prevent hairballs in your kitties, thus making them clean and healthy.

(Kiturah Humphrey, featured columnist of Cats & Kittens, is a retire physician. From Siberian Gatos Cattery in the US, she is responsible for cattery policies and choices that include a programme to eliminate Corona Virus, HCM, Bartonella, Toxoplasmosis, etc.)

Ask the expert..July-Aug 10

Q: Please give inputs on different areas of kitten care.
– Vrushali Makarand Pandit, Pune

 

A: Dr KG Umesh: Cats are solitary animals and like to spend some time alone. Best time to bring home a kitten is when they are six weeks old or more. A small box with high sides placed in a warm, draft-free location is an ideal environment. The floor should be padded with washable towels or disposable papers. The first few days after your kitten comes home, continue to feed the food she’s used to have, to help prevent tummy upsets. Then you can gradually introduce a new food. Growing kittens have specific nutritional requirements, and the simplest way to fulfil them is to buy a good quality complete diet from a reputed manufacturer (for example, Whiskas dry or wet). Play is the key to kitten learning – and also provides exercise. It develops their physical and mental abilities, strengthen their muscles and increases their social skills. Make time to play so that she can continue to develop her ‘cat skills’ – like stalking and pouncing. Toys should be small and light enough to bat and carry around in her mouth – but not small enough to be swallowed. Short-haired kittens only need grooming once or twice a week, but long-haired breeds need at least 15 minutes every day. Until your kitten is used to being groomed, keep sessions short, and make her stand on a folded towel, to help her feel secure while you brush her. There are vaccinations (from age of nine weeks with two booster every three weeks) and deworming that will protect your kitten from a number of serious and highly infectious or parasitic diseases. Lastly, your kitten needs to learn the house rules–proper training, litter training and socialization (introduce to everyday sights, sounds people, etc). Consult your vet for further information and vaccinations schedule.

Take care of your kitty’s kidneys!

Older cats are more susceptible to kidney disease and hence should be regularly checked to avoid this dreadful disease.

Kidney disease can affect a feline at any age but is common among older cats. Kidney disease can either be Acute Renal Failure (ARF), a sudden onset, or Chronic Renal Failure (CRF), a progressive onset. CRF is more common in cats. There is no actual treatment for kidney disease but can only be controlled with proper treatment and diet. 

The symptoms…

Two of the common symptoms include increase thirst (polydipsia) and increased urination (polyuria). The other symptoms are loss of appetite, nausea and vomiting, weight loss, poor hair coat, depression, dehydration and emaciation. The cat may not exhibit all the symptoms. Kidney failure also leads to high blood pressure which may cause blindness in cats. 

The diagnosis…


If your cat shows any of these symptoms, rush your feline friend to the vet immediately. By the time CRF is diagnosed , the cat may have lost 70 percent kidney functioning. Diagnosis of the disease can be made by performing clinical tests like blood test and urinalysis. Blood tests will determine the levels of creatinine and BUN (blood urea nitrogen) as well as other components of the blood. The creatinine level will be elevated if the kidney is not functioning. 

Early detection can save her…

If your cat is aged five or older, it’s a good idea to check for CRF during each annual examination, with a blood test, urinalysis and blood pressure measurement. With early detection, proper diet, and hydration, cats may have a happy and a healthy life.

Chinchilla Persian: Kohl eyes that take your breath away!

"Chinchilla Persians are regal Persian cats with white or golden undercoats and minimal silver tipping. You just can’t ignore their beautiful emerald green eyes with black lining!"

The Chinchilla is a colour within the Persian breed. They are an elegant and regal, with a long beautiful luscious flowing coat, round face and large round eyes. The Chinchilla is depicted by the white undercoat with minimal silver tipping. Shaded Silver Persians have more silver tipping on the hair. The most remarkable thing about a Chinchilla/Silver Persian is their eyes, they have black lining around their eyes that make them look like they are wearing eye make-up. The emerald green eye colour is unbelievably beautiful against the coat. The rare Golden Chinchilla has pale honey/golden undercoat with a mantle of silver tipping.

Personality plus

They have a stunningly beautiful appearance and are outstandingly affectionate and gentle. This gorgeous breed is blessed with personality plus and has a great sense of humour. Chinchillas are generally placid, quiet cats who are more than happy to lie around the home being decorative. This breed will adapt to most situations and is a truly special breed that will completely captivate you and steal your heart. They are intelligent and will follow you from room to room, with the tones, his meows changing according to his moods and wants. Typically, they have a laid-back personality.

Happy & content

Persians are quiet cats, easygoing and generally get along with other pets and family members although boisterous children should be supervised with kittens. Strictly an indoor cat, this breed thrives of human companionship and it is recommended the Chinchilla be housed indoors, unless supervised or on a harness.

Grooming and genetics

This exceptionally pretty breed should be combed daily to avoid the coat knotting and matting. Special attention needs to be paid to the under arms, stomach and tail area, where the fur may run and knots occur more commonly. Some Chinchilla Persians may have runny eyes; this is easily kept clean by gently wiping clean with a wipe and warm water. This is due to their flat faces, some Persians may have problems during hot weather and are best kept indoor. If this is not possible perhaps get their coat clipped off for the hotter months, this makes a happy contented kitty. The long white coat does shed hair, which will become worse in spring as they are shedding the heavy winter coat.

C’attitude’… an undesirable behaviour

Nobody likes a cat who attacks other cats or dogs or even you. Territoriality and fear are usually the causes and the good news is both can be controlled.

Cats don’t plan nasty behaviour. They probably don’t lie around the house waiting to punish their humans for some perceived behavioural infraction or slight. “It’s more likely they are saying, Hey, This is my house,” says Katherine A Houpt, VMD, PhD, Director of Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine’s Behaviour Clinic, NY.

Kitty behaviour…it’s all in the genes

Probably more than 50 percent of cat behaviours is genetically programmed. Cats were originally solitary hunters and territorial animals. Cats began to live together in social groups only when humans began to provide concentrated sources of food.

Early socialization…a must

Cats must be socialized early. The critical period for the socialisation of cats is 2-7 weeks of age. During that time, kittens should meet other cats, humans and dogs. Cats who are not socialised early may end up as difficult house cats.

Numbers count…

A one-cat household will have fewer socialization problems than a two-cat household. And having three cats in the house almost always leads to some trouble - aggression, spraying, or litter box infractions. When a new cat joins the household, it is not necessarily the original cat who is the aggressor; it can be the new cat. If this arrangement occurs, keep the litter boxes separated as well.

The problem can also develop with as simple an act as taking one cat to the veterinarian. Another cat doesn’t recognize him upon his return. The returning cat smells different.

Cattitude…the signs

Besides obvious behaviour, how do you know when an attitude develops? Cats stare and they walk with their hind legs extended so that their backs slope form tail to shoulder. Sometimes they make caterwauling sounds and hissing noises (although hissing can also indicate fear). In addition, a cat staring at a human in irritation may lash his tail from side and point its ears backward. A wagging tail is a happy dog but an angry cat.

Taming the kitty…

• Bell the cat: One way to discourage staring and tension between cats is to put a bell on the aggressor; the bell warns the other cat.


• Keep the two cats separate: It is important that the victim not be frightened of the other cat. One elaborate way to reintroduce cats if they become hostile is to keep the aggressor in a less desirable area of the house behind a solid door, gradually replaced by a plastic door, a screen door, or a door open just a crack. It is not always possible to do this unfortunately but as an alternative the aggressor can be put in a cage while the other cat remains free.


• Feed them together: Feed the cats their meals together, although initially with their food bowls on opposite sides of the room. Gradually, move their food dishes closer together. When the aggressor is first let out of the cage, keep him on a harness.


• Medication for both: Medication for both cats, prescribed by a veterinarian, may be useful – to reduce aggression in one cat and reduce anxiety in the other.


• Careful with a pup: Don’t introduce a puppy to an adult cat - what is play to a puppy can be torture to a cat.


• Redirected aggression: Cats go after human as well, especially after what they may consider to be a threatening experience. Owners do get attacked, but most often it is a case of redirected aggression; a cat seeing another cat out of the window may become aroused and attack his companion cat, a dog or his owner. The cat picks the handiest target and it is a good example of how tenuous cat social bonds are.


• Work out a solution: Don’t let a bad attitude continue. Cats can become enemies forever unless you do something. It is wise to talk to your veterinarian as they will often have a good solution to the problems.

Thus, cattitude can be controlled and your kitty can be the epitome of love and friendship…your friend for life!

(Joan Henderson is based in Australia and she has judged furry felines in many other countries including the USA, Bermuda, Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong, Philippines and New Zealand).

Smarten up your Siberian

Comb up their tresses

The fur of Siberian does not tend to mat usually. They only tend to shed heavily twice a year, which can be prolonged depending on weather. You can comb your Siberian weekly but in shedding season, they ought to be combed every day, maybe more than once and I recommend a Furminator for shedding season.

Different combs for different age groups

Kittens: Use plastic combs to comb kittens’ fur. Kittens have fine silky fur and a comb with a fine tooth side on it,

[caption id="attachment_8262" align="alignright" width="250"] Joan E Henderson[/caption]

is an easy tool to use. Since they will bite the comb or brush, always keep two plastic combs handy.

Adult cats: As they get older, shift to steel and a full groom kit for the adult coat. The adults’ fur does nicely with the combs with a Furminator, which greatly cuts down on the shedding. A brush made of rubber called Pet Hair Elimator is very comfortable for the cat and a good tool for a cat who does not like grooming. You can use battery-powered ionic deep brush, which catches flying fur. And you can also use a fine rake brush. The cats seem to especially like the rubber brush as it feels like petting.

Tips to follow

• Always talk to your cats whilew grooming them, telling them what a wonderful experience it is.


• They must be taught as kittens too like grooming, so that they will enjoy it as adults when they really need it.


• If you have a problem with feces sticking to perianal hair, try trimming the hair shorter with scissors.


• With or without grooming, a kitten needs to be petted and played with every day.

So, make your grooming sessions fun and see your kitty really smarten up!

The unfolding of our sweet felines

Evolution is the process by which species develop, being slowly formed over millennia by pressures such as natural selection and genetic drift. Here’s how our felines tiptoed into our lives….

The Felidae family...

The Felidae family, to which all cats belong, has done well, branching out in all geographical directions with thirty-seven variations on a highly effective blueprint of a top predator, ranging from Sand Cats to Tigers. These all trace back to one common ancestor who lived on our planet between 20 and 30 million years ago: Proailurus. This animal was remarkably like a large domestic cat and probably spent a lot of time hunting in trees for small animals. From this humble beginning the cat’s family tree started to branch out. A legacy of huge and frightening Sabre-toothed Cats, some of whom thought nothing of snacking on a Rhino, spread across the world and dominated it for millions of years. However, these fearsome beasts were outlived by less assuming cousins and all living cat species today owe their heritage to the Cougar-like Pseudaelurus.

Sometimes in the history of an animal’s evolution a change occurs because it develops a symbiotic relationship with another species. That is to say, two unrelated animals find a way to get along and have a mutually beneficial relationship. The youngest species of cat arose in this way and is the cat we all know, love and cuddle on a cold night.

The first domestic cat…

Felis Silvestris Catus or the Domestic Cat developed around 5000 years ago when there was a social shift among the people of North Africa who for the first time ceased a nomadic existence in order to settle on fertile land and farm food. Excess grain was stored for leaner times and this attracted the destructive attention of mice. The sand brown African Wild Cat, Felis Silvestris Lybica, was and still is, present in the area hunting small prey in the steppes, savannas and bush-land. Unlike many small cat species, African Wild Cat kittens can develop a certain level of tameness if raised with people from a young enough age.

Cats in religion…

Cats became increasingly important in religion in Egypt, with the cult of cat goddess Bast elevating their status to sacred and worshipped VIPs. During this time it became common practise to keep cats confined for the first time, and they were bred and pampered in temples.

The sailors…

The Phoenicians were great sea traders sailing all around Europe in boats propelled by muscle-armed galley slaves. One of their great strengths was realising that cats were as vital to successful seafaring as cooperative oarsmen. Between 1200 and 800 BC these ships took cats all around the Mediterranean and beyond and by 500 BC, cats were well established in Southern Europe and traders were taking them on journeys to and from China and Japan where they were invaluable in protecting silkworm cocoons from rats.

Touched by luxury…

It was in Rome that the cat had its first taste of luxury as a pampered pet while the mongoose was sent out to work catching vermin. As the Roman Empire came to prominence cats hitched a ride again to even more countries, including England, where feline footprints on clay tiles date back to 4 AD, and India, where sea-faring Romans had many trade links, especially in the West coast. Then as time passed travel and exploration took ship’s cats across the Atlantic to America and down under to New Zealand and Australia with the first colonists.

Not only had Felis S Catus become a new, distinct sub-species but a highly successful one thanks to its ability to live alongside humans. Our cats had to adapt and change themselves in order to fully exploit this relationship, and several key differences set the domestic cat apart from his wild cousins.

(Anthony Nichols has been showing cats for about 20 years, starting with non-pedigrees, and breeding for about ten years. He has bred Devon Rex and Singapuras, but mainly focuses on breeding LaPerms in a range of colours, particularly the reds, creams, torties, chocolates and colourpoints.) (To be continued…Read our next issue to know how domestic cats are different from wild cats.)

‘In touch’ with your cat’s health

Regular visits to the veterinarian are an essential part of keeping your cat healthy. An excellent way for you to keep tabs on him in between vet visits is to do your own, nose-to-tail checkups at home.

Get in the habit of running your hands all over your cat’s body whenever he’s cuddling with you or you’re grooming him. This is the best way to discover problems before they become serious. Call your veterinarian if you find any of these conditions.

Skin deep

While petting your cat, feel for any lumps, scratches, scabs, swelling, or any other irregularities. Dandruff, oily fur, and missing fur can indicate skin or internal problems. Part the fur to look for fleas; specks that look like black pepper are actually “flea dirt” (flea feces that contain your cat’s blood turn red when wet).

Lend an ear

The hairless part of your cat’s ears should be clean and odourless. If your cat is having problems, he may shake his head a lot and scratch his ears. Check for flaking, scabs, foul odour, or discharge. If you see a black, gritty substance inside, he probably has ear mites, a parasite that causes severe itching and is contagious to other cats.

Eye spy

Look for bright, clear, evenly focused eyes. Redness, discolouration or discharge, squinting, or the emergence of the third eyelid can signal that your cat has a problem.

Open wide

Healthy gums are pink, pale or bright; red gums may mean something is wrong. Drooling and pawing at the mouth are cause for concern as well. Brown streaks and tartar build-up on the teeth may indicate a dental problem. Your cat’s breath should not be so bad that you can’t stand to have him near you.

Get nosey

Cat’s noses should be clean, and, depending on his activity level and the ambient temperature, his nose may be cold or warm. If he paws at his nose, sneezes frequently, or there is a discharge, contact your veterinarian.

Tall tails

Look under his tail. If you see what looks like grains of rice or spaghetti, contact your veterinarian. Your cat has parasites—some of which may be spread to you or other pets.

Foot the bill

Most cats don’t like to have their feet touched, but if yours doesn’t mind, look for stuck-on litter, torn claws, cuts, swellings, or infections. Also, check your cat’s claws regularly to see if they need to be trimmed; untrimmed claws can inadvertently scratch you, get caught on carpet and furniture, and grow into the paw.

Brush it off

If your cat likes to be brushed, finish off your exam with a nice grooming session. Brushing is good for removing loose fur, distributing oils, and stimulating blood flow. Brushing also helps prevent hairballs, which cats cough up when they’ve swallowed too much fur from grooming themselves or another cat in the household.

Book smarts

All owners should have a book on cat care (recommended by a veterinarian) that includes a section on emergency first aid. You should never try to be your own veterinarian, but there are some emergency procedures that could minimise damage and keep your pet relatively comfortable on the way to the veterinarian. Familiarise yourself with these procedures before an emergency happens.

(This article is contributed by Humane Society of the Unites States (HSUS). Established in 1954, HSUS seeks a humane and sustainable world for all animals; www.hsus.org)

Can you advice me about Toxoplasmosis in cats?...May-June 10

Q: Can you advice me about Toxoplasmosis in cats? Also what is the prevention/ cure for cats and people around them?
– Rajesh Talreja, Mumbai

 

A: Dr KG Umesh: Toxoplasmosis is a parasitic disease caused by Toxoplasma gondii. Toxoplasmosis is usually transmitted from ingestion of undercooked meat, sporulated oocysts (eggs), paratenic hosts, and it can be congenital. Acute toxoplasmosis in pregnant women leads to serious disease and/or defects in the fetus. Disease in cats may cause brain disease, liver disease, pancreatitis, respiratory disease and eye disorders. Cats with symptomatic toxoplasmosis are often immunosuppressed. Prevention: Do not feed raw or undercooked meat to cats, keep cats inside and do not let them hunt. Washing hands with soap and water after handling a cat or contacting any urine, feces or other bodily secretions is one of the simplest and most important means of infectious disease control. Pregnant women should avoid contact with cats and cat feces, which are more than 24 hours old. Do not let the cat lick the person in question, particularly on the face, nor should they handle the cat. Practice good hygiene (wash after handling uncooked meat, wear gloves while gardening, cover sandboxes, clean litter boxes daily. Freeze meat to -20oC (-4oF) for two days or cook meat to 160°F and thoroughly clean areas where raw meat is prepared, wash fruits and vegetables prior to consumption). Keep the cat in good health by having regular examinations by a veterinarian, as well as up-to-date vaccinations and regular fecal exams to check for parasites. Feed a high-quality commercial cat food that does not contain any raw ingredients.

A step towards an adorable Tomcat

If you have a male cat and do not wish to breed him, get him neutered to keep him safe and healthy.

Tomcats…vulnerable to fights

Many intact Tomcats come to the Blue Cross Shelter with severe bite wounds that result from fights with other male cats. These wounds, frequently, develop into abscesses and become infested with maggots. These wounds can also become infested with viral diseases that prove fatal to the cat, without proper and timely veterinary care.

Puberty issues…

Tomcats attain puberty at 6-8 months and develop some undesirable changes in their behaviour. They become territorial in nature and start to mark their territory by spraying urine indoors as well as outdoors. The urine has a strong odour which is difficult to remove. The cat will start enlarging his territory and this would often result in fights with other male cats. An un-neutered male cat will also start roaming to look for female cats in heat. It is believed that a male cat can detect and follow the scent of a female cat for seven miles!

A roaming male cat can get into fights with other male cats and also the chances of the cat getting lost are high.

A solution…

You can protect your feline friend from attacks by other male cats by neutering him. Neutering is necessary if you want your Tomcat to grow into a healthy and an adorable adult. Neutering male cats also cuts out the risk of testicular cancer and decreases the incidence of prostate and anal tumours.

Shun the myths…

Neutering does not alter the basic personality of your cat. He doesn’t suffer any kind of emotional reaction or identity crisis when neutered. On the other hand, he will become more loving and contented.

(Sudhersena is volunteer at the Blue Cross since 1998 and an avid animal lover, owns nine cats and three dogs. She is associated with a number of animal welfare campaigns and programmes. For further information, contact: Blue Cross of India, 72 Velachery Road, Chennai –32 or e-mail at bci@bluecross.org.in )

Ocicats: An amazing combo of wild looks and adorable temperament

If you are fascinated by leopard but wary of his temperament… get home an Ocicat, who has the look of a leopard and a heart of gold!

French writer Fernand Mery rightly said, “God made the domestic cat in order that humankind might have the pleasure of caressing the tiger.” And Ocicat, a new domestic breed, has been selectively bred from pedigreed ancestors to resemble a wild jungle cat and may be the answer to bridge the gap between the savage and the tame. Although still quite rare, Ocicat is rapidly gaining worldwide recognition and popularity primarily because of its striking wild-looking appearance and its possession of a temperament that’s anything but ferocious.

The first Ocicat…

The first Ocicat was Tonga, a breeding between a pedigreed Abyssinian and a Seal Point Siamese. People were amazed with this exquisite kitten with bright golden spots on an ivory background.

Looks that kill…

This cat in motion captures the dramatic presence of a wild animal with his large size, well developed musculature and suggestion of a stalking leopard. They come in 12 distinct colours ranging from the leopard colours of ivory with brown spots or reddish brown spots; cinnamon, which is ivory with bright red spots; tawny, that has a white to ivory undercoat with buff tips and black spots; to the more unusual coloured silvers that have a white background with ebony, red, or chocolate spots.

Attitude to die for…

And yet, in spite of their size and appearance, the Ocicat has a gentle and affectionate nature and is totally devoted to their people. The intelligence of the breed impresses their admirers. Most are capable of opening doors, walking on a leash, responding to whistled commands and learning to ‘fetch’. As a bonus, they readily adapt to household rules and are not “aloof ” as are many other feline breeds. Unlike his untamed counterpart, this cat will gladly roll over for a good stomach rub and won’t take your arm off at the elbow. This cat is quite extroverted, even around strangers, and they get along especially well with children of all ages, other kinds of cats and pets.

Sturdy body…

These cats have no associated diseases or genetic anomalies and are generally easy to breed and experience few problems during birthing.

Easy upkeep…

The Ocicat requires no special diet or excessive grooming and needs no special permits or licenses to own.

The Ocicat’s temperament, coupled with their intelligence and adaptability, creates for both one-cat owners and multi-animal households, a truly unique and loving companion.

Do’s and Don’ts for your kitty treats

Like humans, your kittens may like a different treat. Here are a few treats you can give to your feline friends:

• You may give upto a quarter cup of milk at a time, but more may cause diarrhoea.


• You can give yogurt for calcium and digestion.


• You may mix yoghurt with a small dash of taurine powder, a flavour the cats like and is good for them.


• Protein-based meat, poultry and fish are good for your cat. Just make sure there are no fish bones.


• Treats should not form more than half the diet.


• Avoid garlic and onion seasonings as these are toxic for cats.


• You can give Dental Chews or Greenies for cats in the recommended quantities.

(Kit Humphrey, featured columnist of Cats & Kittens, is a retired physician from Siberian Gatos Cattery in the US.)

Ask the expert..Mar-Apr 10

Q: How do we groom cats? Are there any cat grooming parlours in our country?
- Adil B Khan, New Delhi

 

A: Dr K G Umesh: A clean shiny coat is a sign of good health and nutrition. By grooming your cat, you can, however, help to encourage growth and shine of the hair. Cats are naturally clean animals, so your cat may need little grooming, particularly if she has short hair. Longhaired cats need to be groomed more regularly, possibly as much as once a day, and it is best to get your cat used to this when she is a young kitten. Grooming can be something both you and your cat will enjoy. If your cat (or kitten) is initially nervous, it is advisable to spend some time playing with her, until she is comfortable being touched and handled. Let her play with the comb or brush, so she gets used to them and loses her anxiety. Groom all the dead hair out of the coat using a comb or soft bristle brush. Be particularly gentle when combing the head, then groom down the body, the tail, and the legs. Once groomed thoroughly, go over the coat with the brush to remove all loose hairs. The hair of longhaired cats and kittens can easily become matted. Once hair is matted, it will have to be removed before the cat can be groomed; this may involve sedating the cat and clipping the hair by a professional cat groomer or your veterinarian. If your cat is dirty, you may use a clean, damp cloth to wipe her down. Wet the cloth with warm water only, don’t use any soaps. Grooming your cat offers you an excellent opportunity to check her skin for lumps, rashes, discharges or any other signs that your cat is not well. Your vet can able to advise good grooming parlours available in your city.

For the purrfect feline eyes…

Your kitty is prone to conjunctivitis. If you spot signs of conjunctivitis, rush to her vet immediately to avoid discomfort and save her eyesight. Here’s more on this red eye disease.

What is conjunctivitis?

Conjunctivitis (pink eye) is a common eye problem in cats. It is the inflammation of conjunctiva, a membrane lining the inner eyelids and the eyeball. It covers the third eyelid also. A healthy conjunctiva is pink in colour but when it is infected, it becomes red and swollen.

Harmful effects of conjuctivitis

If conjunctivitis is left untreated, it may lead to a lot of discomfort to your feline friend and may seriously affect the eyesight. Conjuctivitis may affect one eye or both.

Symptoms of conjuctivitis

The common symptoms of conjuctivitis are:

• Reddened and swollen conjunctiva, particularly in the corner of the eye.


• Discharge from the eye, either clear or pus-like


• Third eyelid protrusion.


• Squinting eye.


• Cat eye infections may be accompanied by frequent sneezing and possibly an upper respiratory tract infection.

Causes of conjuctivitis

The underlying causes for conjunctivitis can be broadly classified as non-infectious or infectious. Trauma to the eyes, allergies, foreign objects, and chemicals are some of the non-infectious causes. Common infectious causes can be due to feline chlamydia (a type of bacteria), feline mycoplasma (a group of organisms somewhat like bacteria) and Feline Herpesvirus Type-1 (FHV-1). FHV-1 is an upper respiratory virus, also known as rhinotracheitis and is not transferable to humans. FHV-1 is the most common cause and most cats are exposed to the virus when they are kittens. This virus will lie dormant during the life of the cat and will flare up anytime.

Treatment of conjuctivitis

It depends on the underlying cause. Eyedrops or ointments are commonly used. All cases of conjunctivitis should be treated at once. So, rush your kitty to your vet on the first signs of the disease.

(Sudhersena is volunteer at the Blue Cross since 1998 and an avid animal lover, owns nine cats and three dogs. She is associated with a number of animal welfare campaigns and programmes. For further information, contact: Blue Cross of India, 72 Velachery Road, Chennai –32 or e-mail at bci@bluecross.org.in )

Japanese Bobtails: simply divine!

There is never a dull moment with Japanese Bobtails. Not only are they unique in looks, they can quickly steal your heart with their love and loyalty.

When we got our first Japanese Bobtail eleven years ago, I was amazed at how quickly she bonded with my daughter and our family. We got her when she was a year old and she bonded immediately with our family. She follows my daughter around the house. If she hears my daughter but does not see her, she will ‘call out’ to her with her sing-song voice until she finds her.

Body beautiful…

The Japanese Bobtail is a medium sized cat, well muscled but straight and slender. The unique short tail resembles a bunny tail with the hair fanning out to create a pompom appearance which camouflages the underlying bone structure. The head is triangular in shape. The high cheekbones and unique set of the large eyes lend a distinctive Japanese cast to the face. They come in many colours. Their eyes can be odd eyed, blue, green or gold. They come in longhair or shorthair.

Friendly and intelligent…

The Japanese Bobtail is active, energetic and very affectionate. Their outgoing and loving temperament makes them excellent pets. They are loyal to their pet parents. All of my Japanese Bobtails have gotten along well with my dogs and other cats. They love attention. They are people oriented breed. They are high energy but not destructive or hyper. They will keep the entire family entertained. They are lively and active; love to play well into their later years.

Good learners…

We have had many Japanese Bobtails who could turn on the faucet to get a drink or flush the toilets, many could open doors and drawers to get their own treats and many played fetch. They can be taught to walk on a leash as well.

Kitten kare…

Japanese Bobtails kittens are intelligent and learn to use litter box quickly. They love to play and love to cuddle and be held. Since they are healthy breed, their kittens are always hearty and healthy.

Grooming…

As they have no undercoat, Japanese Bobtails come either in longhair or shorthair for which a weekly brushing is all that’s normally required.

Activities…

Climbing, running, playing with other kittens are normal activities of Japanese Bobtails who also play ‘fetch’ if taught. Fond of playing with toys like balls, feathers, catnip, etc for hours, they do well in agility courses at cat shows.

How’s it to live with them?

Japanese Bobtails are entertaining and always put a smile on your face. They are in fact loyal companions who wish to please their owners and be with them.

(Lisa Rowe with her daughter Samantha own the cattery Samiz Cats homing Japanese Bobtails in Ohio)