Cats & Kittens Nov Dec 2012 Issue

+ Snowshoes: kittens for life!
+ The purrfect kitten
+ Ask the Expert..
+ Purrfect relocation planning !
+ Art of nail clipping...

Ask the Expert.. Nov Dec 2012

Dr KG Umesh (MVSc, MSc (UK)) is a Postgraduate in Clinical Medicine. He is working for WALTHAM as Regional Associate for South Asia.

Q: My two male Persians get into ego hassles and start battling each other. How do we make them more cordial

[caption id="attachment_8395" align="alignright" width="250"] Billu[/caption]

to each other and if they get in an aggressive situation- how do we separate them?
- R Ramesh, Mysore

Dr KG Umesh: Cats are territorial creatures and they do like to go outdoors to establish a territory in relation to neighbouring cats. This is far more important for toms (male cats) than it is for queens (female cats). Tom cats may establish a territory which is 10 times larger than that of queens. The territory of a domestic cat will be centred on his own home-base and he will use smells, sounds, scratches and other marks to define the boundaries. The territory of a cat only remains fixed for as long as the cat dominates the area - if another cat arrives on the scene, there may be a confrontation, boundaries may have to be redrawn, and life goes on. Treatment for aggression between cats living in the same household requires separation when supervision is not possible. Treating intercat aggression takes time (sometimes months), so, patience is a necessity. The aggressor is banished to a less desirable location (for example, spare room) while the victim is allowed free range or access to favourite locations. The aggressor can be fitted with a harness or collar and bells, allowing both victim and pet parent to hear the aggressor at all times. At the first sign of aggression, the aggressor should be startled using the mildest stimulus necessary. The stimulus (for example, calling his name) used to startle the aggressor is meant to interrupt and distract but not to terrify the cat, as fear can increase aggression. Reintroduction is gradual and supervised at all times, with you vigilant during these sessions. It is also important to provide strictly indoor cats with a stimulating environment that includes playing and searching opportunities, hiding places, and high perched resting areas. Neutering and medications to controlling undesired behaviours are other options.

Ask the Expert..Nov Dec 11

Dr KG Umesh (MVSc, MSc (UK)) is a Postgraduate in Clinical Medicine. He is working for WALTHAM as Regional Associate for South Asia.

Q: I have three cats - the problem I have is that they keep peeing everywhere - how do I stop this? How do I get them used to using the litter box?
– Shanaz Kader, Mumbai

Dr KG Umesh: Cats are naturally clean animals, for whom litter tray training is usually a relatively simple procedure. Kittens should start to use a litter tray as soon as possible. Ideally, the day that you bring your new kitten or cat home, you should make her aware of the location of the litter tray. The litter tray should be positioned in a quiet area of the house so that the cat may use it in private. The tray should not be sited near the cat’s feeding bowls, since cats do not like to soil the area near their food. It is best to provide a plastic litter tray which sides are not too deep, so that the kitten may easily get in and out, but will provide an adequate depth of litter in which she may bury her faeces. As the kitten grows up, the litter tray will need to be increasingly deeper. This will not only ensure that the litter is not scratched everywhere when the faeces is buried, but also that the cat does not ‘miss’ the tray when urinating.

Young kittens will often want to urinate and defecate when they wake up and after they have eaten. When litter training kittens, it is important to place them on the litter tray at these times and reward them for eliminating in the appropriate place. You will soon know when your cat is looking for a suitable place to use as a toilet, since she will start sniffing, scratching and begin to crouch, try to catch her and place her in the litter tray at this point. If your cat has a little ‘accident,’ clean up the soiled area, best with a non-ammonia based product, since your cat may perceive the smell of ammonia to be similar to urine.

Soiled litter should be removed at least once a day, ideally faeces should be removed as soon as you discover them. At least once a week the litter tray should be completely changed and the tray thoroughly cleaned and disinfected.

If none of the above solves the problem of your cat soiling in inappropriate places, you should have your cat checked by a veterinarian to ensure that the problem is not due to an underlying medical condition.