Art of nail clipping...

Some cats disappear as soon as they see you with the nail clippers! Not any more...here’s how to make nail clipping a pleasure, not a chore.

Start young

Kittens should be introduced to nail clipping when they are young and in this way, they will become accustomed to having their nails clipped on a regular basis and not try to hide away.

Quiet atmosphere

Nail clipping should be done in a quiet and calm atmosphere and the cat should be handled gently but securely on your lap with as few distractions as possible.

Build up the rapport

It is a good idea to take one paw at a time and gently massage the paw for a very short period of time. Don’t squeeze, don’t pull or pinch. Most cats will settle down and not resist their pet parent who has always been kind to them. Always speak calmly and lovingly to your cat during the nail clipping procedure and this should help to settle her down.

Spring into action

The cat should sit on your lap and be facing away from you. Take one of her toes in your hand, massage and press the pad until the nail extends. Check how much nail needs to be clipped and where ‘The Quick’ begins. Trim only the sharp tip of the nail and continue on until all nails have been clipped. Start slowly and never rush cutting your cat’s nails so you do not make any mistakes. Once all nails have been cut, use an emery board to smooth off the rough end of the nail. Trimming nails every 10-14 days should be enough.

Word of caution

The pink part of the cat’s nail called ‘The Quick’ is where the nerves and blood vessels are. Do not cut into this very sensitive area. Snip only the white part of the claw. It is far better to be cautious and only clip a small portion of the nail rather than clipping too much and cause bleeding of the pink area of the nail. A styptic powder or stick (available from your veterinarian) is worth having on hand to stop any bleeding. If you have any problems, then have your veterinarian or groomer to do this for you.

Tips to follow

If your cat resists and becomes angry, never raise your voice or growl at her. She won’t forget that and you will always have problems. Sometimes it is easier to only trim 3-4 nails at a time and then trim the remaining nails at a later time. Provide your cat with a scratching post and she will help to keep her nails smooth in between clipping.

(Joan E Henderson is based in Australia and she has judged furry felines in many other countries including USA, Bermuda, Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong, Philippines and New Zealand).

Pause for paws...

Here’s how to heal your kitty’s cracked heels and sore paw pads.

Paw woes...

• If you have a cat who goes outdoors, she can often hurt her paws on a rough stone or wire if they jump over a fence.


• Indoor cats can also damage their paw pads by jumping on sharp objects, chewing the pads and between toes if they are left alone too long and become stressed or accidently damaging them by playing with a child’s toy made of wood that is a little splintered.


• Any contact with hot water can lead to blistering and painful paw pads.

Paw healing...

• A scraped and sore paw pad can be healed by using a baby’s sock that is tied on with a flat bandage. Do not use cord or you can cut off the circulation by tying it too tight. Remove the sock every few hours to make sure the pad is healing – never leave it on for too long as infection can occur.


• If a paw pad is bleeding, wrap a bandage fairly tight around the whole foot. It is not necessary to use a tourniquet unless there is a great deal of blood gushing out. In that case, taking your cat to the veterinarian is very wise so he can check if a blood vessel has been damaged. Tourniquets can be quite dangerous unless loosened every 15-20 minutes to relieve the pressure.


• Cracked and sore paw pads can be soothed by gently rubbing in cod-liver oil. The cat will probably lick the oil off but it won’t harm him. Just keep a close eye on your cat and replace the cod-liver oil on a regular basis for 2-3 days to help soften the pad. The best idea is to be alert to your cat and regularly check your cat’s paw pads, legs, ears and tail as she can get up to all sorts of mischief and need attention.

(Joan E Henderson is based in Australia and she has judged furry felines in many other countries including USA, Bermuda, Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong, Philippines and New Zealand).

It’s purrfect!

Most cats communicate through a variety of vocal noises, such as purring, hissing, meowing, to name a few. They generally display their own personalities through these vocalisations and most people find them very endearing... sometimes though they can be very annoying.

Purring/meowing is the cat’s way of getting your attention and this is quite normal. Obviously during mating season, the vocalisation from your cat increases and this can become quite annoying. Siameses are known to have a much louder purr/meow than most other breeds whereas Abyssinians and Persians are generally rather quiet cats.

The various sounds: Cats purring loudly for their dinner is quite different to the cat who meows very loudly in the middle of the night – generally demanding attention. If they do not get the attention they desire, then obviously the purring/meowing becomes louder and louder. Hissing, however, is a totally different situation and the cat is letting you know he is not pleased about something.

Excessive vocalisation: It is, however, difficult to actually describe excessive vocalisation as all cats are different. It really depends on how much ‘noise’ the pet parent is prepared to put up with.

The attention-seekers: A lot may have to do with the time of day... is it getting close to meal time and you are being rather slow to provide their dinner? Do they want you to play with them or do they want to go outside?

Purring in discomfort: It is also wise to make sure that your cat is not unwell or injured and this is the only way they can get our attention to help them... the sounds they make in cases such as that are generally very different to those they make when all is well.

Getting their own way: Pet parents must always keep in mind that cats are highly intelligent animals and they can soon learn what I call THE DRIP SYSTEM – if they keep pestering us for long enough we will eventually give in. It is like a dripping tap that is hard to ignore – we soon stop what we are doing and go and turn the tap off.... cats work on the assumption that we will soon give them the attention they want – regardless of what we are doing.

If a cat learns that her pet parent will immediately pay her attention, then she will soon realise that loud purring/meowing will get her what she wants – even if it is only more attention! It is hard to ignore a cat who constantly seeks attention but like a naughty child we need to limit the time we give her – especially if we are very busy – and eventually the cat will realise.

(Joan E Henderson is based in Australia and she has judged furry felines in many other countries including USA, Bermuda, Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong, Philippines and New Zealand)

The chic look!

Cats are fastidious and a large part of a cat’s day is spent grooming in order to keep his coat in pristine condition. However, we must remember that we play a large part in keeping our cat clean and healthy and this must never be forgotten if we want a happy and contented cat.

[caption id="attachment_8259" align="alignright" width="127"] Joan Henderson[/caption]

Groom while young: Accustom your kitten with the brush or whatever else you choose to groom with. Little kittens do not need much grooming care, but when they have been introduced to grooming while young, they will not struggle against it when they mature. Brushing should be done regularly and should be a pleasurable experience for both the cat and the pet parents.

Coat care: Regular coat care keeps the fur free of ticks and fleas, prevents the coat from matting and being tangled (which is very painful for the cat) and helps to remove dandruff flakes that develop when the cat renews the skin beneath the fur.

Twice yearly, when preparing for the summer and winter, your cat will thin or fill out his coat. This is less noticeable in cats who are kept indoors than those who live outside, but it nevertheless occurs. Brushing will remove the excess fur and at these times should be done daily; hairballs which form in the cat’s stomach when he swallows hair following self grooming can cause very serious health problems which is why brushing is so important.

Clip the nails: The front claws should be clipped as needed. There are several types of nail clippers available; be sure to get one suited for cats. The thin red line in the nail, the quick, is where the vein begins. Do not cut into this as it will be very painful for your pet and it will bleed. If you have not yet learned how to trim properly or if you are afraid of hurting your cat, just trim off the very tip where the nail is most pointed. Use an emery board (nail file) to smooth the tip down so it is not rough and can scratch you. Take the help of your vet to clip his nails.

Clean the ears: It is very important that you take great care of a cat’s ears. They should be wiped out with cotton and mineral oil occasionally. Mites can accumulate in the ears and the brown matter that you see is generally caused by mites which really need to be eradicated immediately. Your veterinarian can also show you the correct way to do this but you must be very careful and not push the cotton too deep into the ear drum. Never put anything into the ear canal. Cats’ ears are very sensitive, and you can do permanent damage or injury to your pet if you are careless about ear care.

Take care of the eyes: Cat’s eyes are generally kept clean by the cat himself unless they have an infection or disease which needs to be attended to. The matter that appears daily in the corners of the eye is usually cleaned by the cat but keep a watch to make sure that this does not build up and create a problem. Some cats are quite lazy about eye care and you need to help them to keep their eyes clean at all times.

Bathe him when he needs it: The best rule about bathing a cat is to only do so when the cat needs a bath. Longhairs need more bathing than the shorthaired cats do as they can pick up bits of rubbish and dust in their coat which becomes tangled and uncomfortable. Use a feline shampoo only. Wash your cat in warm water, using as little shampoo as possible, and make sure that you completely rinse the shampoo out. This may take 2-3 rinses so that shampoo does not build up in the coat. If too much shampoo is left on the coat then the skin oils dry out and the cat scratches a lot. Make sure you towel dry the cat thoroughly or he may catch a cold.

Cats should not be bathed and then allowed outside because the coat could still be a little damp and the cat will pick up a chill. It is best to do this inside in a warm room and keep the cat confined.

The general care and bathing of a long hair cat requires a lot of attention and owners need to get some information from owners who really know how to do this. Longhair cats need combing and brushing daily to keep their coats clean and sparkling. After bathing it takes some time to GENTLY comb out any tangles from the coat and then carefully brush the cat until it is completely dry and comfortable. Longhairs need more bathing than the shorthaired cats do as they can pick up bits of rubbish and dust in their coat which becomes tangled and uncomfortable. Always remember that a cute, fluffy kitten with a reasonably short coat, will grow into an adult with a long coat that needs a great deal more care than a shorthaired cat. Persians and all longhair cats make very affectionate companions but they do need to be groomed daily or you will be facing an unhappy cat with a matted and tangled coat.

It is one of the major responsibilities of a cat owner that they keep their cats clean, healthy and with sparkling, shiny coats. Think about tangles in your own hair and consider how uncomfortable this is for a cat.

(Joan Henderson is based in Australia and she has judged furry felines in many other countries including USA, Bermuda, Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong, Philippines and New Zealand)

Being ‘Nosey’!

There is no animal who will investigate a different smell more earnestly than the cat. Their sense of smell is highly developed and very little escapes them.

Cats will pick up new smells in many ways... their owner’s clothing, another cat’s coat, smells coming in from an open window, plants and perfume. Sniffing seems to intensify the smell and the desire to investigate becomes paramount until their quest is complete.

Smell.... right from beginning...

It seems that almost from birth, kittens develop this keen sense of smell and react very strongly to unpleasant and offensive odours. It is important that this sense of smell is developed early so that they can pick up the mammary glands of their mother and it appears that within 3-4 days they have selected the one nipple that they prefer to nurse from and generally return to it every time they drink.

It is the smell that guides kittens back to their area and they become quite distressed if they are not able to return to the

area where they have become accustomed to a certain smell. When kittens begin to roam, they seem to have no trouble finding their way back to their own bedding or where their mother is resting. Despite the fact that once they are able to see they still rely on the smell of familiar areas.

We have all seen a cat curling their top lip and this occurs as a cat inhales odours that are not familiar to them. At approximately six weeks of age, a kitten will sniff odours, such as urine or droppings and is often seen touching the odour followed by the raising of their head, wrinkling their nose and pulling their lip back and opening their mouth. Tomcats do this regularly when they are out seeking a mate or when they sense that another Tomcat has been in their area.

Using their sense of smell...

• Most cats, although not all, love the smell of plants, valerian and catnip and they also like many other herbs as well.


• Perfume can be almost intoxicating to a cat and they often endeavour to wash their owners clean from the area of the perfume on the body.


• Cats will sit as near to the oven and stove as they can, and still be safe, and absorb the smell of the evening meal... licking their lips in anticipation of sharing this beautifully interesting meal.


• Few cats have a problem in finding food that has been put away but with the smell still lingering. Their sniff takes them directly to that piece of meat which appears hidden to us, but not to the cat and his nose.


• The mating of the cat is also vitally connected to their sense of smell. Male cats can locate a female in heat a great distance away. Unfortunately he also encounters other cats who have picked up the same scent and battle for supremacy.


• Cats can tell if strangers have been in their surroundings and they seem to readily recognise the smell of their pet parents.


• Moving home can bring on quite distressing moods in cats until they have settled into their new environment so we should always endeavour to bring something from their previous home which will have a familiar scent and have a calming effect on the cat.

(Joan Henderson is based in Australia and she has judged furry felines in many other countries including USA, Bermuda, Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong, Philippines and New Zealand)

Diet for your senior kitty

As our cats get older, it is very important to provide them with a good and healthy diet. Here are a few tips to choose the best diet for your ageing kitty.

• Good feeding plan. Setting a good feeding plan throughout their lives is the best way to maintain a happy and healthy cat who lives a happy and fit old age.


• Choose high quality food designed for senior cats. As cats get older they are far less active and their energy decreases so they do not require the same amount of food that they needed when they were younger. Some fat is needed in the diet but this should be reduced although not totally cut out. Senior cat food takes this into consideration and provides them with the vitamins, nutrients and fat that they require.


• Always choose food that your cat eats and enjoys. As they get older cats often lose some of their teeth and their gums may not be quite as strong and healthy as when they were younger. So, choose a diet which they can eat properly.


• Give protein to maintain their muscle tone and immune system. Beef, poultry, fish or lamb is preferable and better than protein from sources such as wheat or corn. A cat's system can use meat-based protein far better than plant-based protein. Approximately one-thirds of the diet should be made up of meat-based food and therefore also provide about one-thirds of their required calories.


• Provide two or three small meals a day for a senior cat than one large meal. If you are using canned food, always remove the uneaten portion after 30 minutes to prevent the food from spoiling. Some cats, who are not inclined to be obese, can be given a little food to nibble on during the day. If you have younger cats in the house it might be wise to feed your senior animals away so that the younger animals cannot reach it.


• No to treats and table scraps. It is not a good idea to give your cat, of any age, table scraps or regular treats.


• Provide your cat with fresh water at all times – especially cats who may have kidney problems.


• Watch the litter tray. It is important to watch their litter tray to make sure that their waste is not too loose as there may be insufficient fibre in the diet. If this continues for any length of time, always consult your veterinarian who will give your cat a full examination and make suggestions regarding a suitable diet to maintain good health.

(Joan Henderson is based in Australia and she has judged furry felines in many other countries including USA, Bermuda, Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong, Philippines and New Zealand)

C’attitude’… an undesirable behaviour

Nobody likes a cat who attacks other cats or dogs or even you. Territoriality and fear are usually the causes and the good news is both can be controlled.

Cats don’t plan nasty behaviour. They probably don’t lie around the house waiting to punish their humans for some perceived behavioural infraction or slight. “It’s more likely they are saying, Hey, This is my house,” says Katherine A Houpt, VMD, PhD, Director of Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine’s Behaviour Clinic, NY.

Kitty behaviour…it’s all in the genes

Probably more than 50 percent of cat behaviours is genetically programmed. Cats were originally solitary hunters and territorial animals. Cats began to live together in social groups only when humans began to provide concentrated sources of food.

Early socialization…a must

Cats must be socialized early. The critical period for the socialisation of cats is 2-7 weeks of age. During that time, kittens should meet other cats, humans and dogs. Cats who are not socialised early may end up as difficult house cats.

Numbers count…

A one-cat household will have fewer socialization problems than a two-cat household. And having three cats in the house almost always leads to some trouble - aggression, spraying, or litter box infractions. When a new cat joins the household, it is not necessarily the original cat who is the aggressor; it can be the new cat. If this arrangement occurs, keep the litter boxes separated as well.

The problem can also develop with as simple an act as taking one cat to the veterinarian. Another cat doesn’t recognize him upon his return. The returning cat smells different.

Cattitude…the signs

Besides obvious behaviour, how do you know when an attitude develops? Cats stare and they walk with their hind legs extended so that their backs slope form tail to shoulder. Sometimes they make caterwauling sounds and hissing noises (although hissing can also indicate fear). In addition, a cat staring at a human in irritation may lash his tail from side and point its ears backward. A wagging tail is a happy dog but an angry cat.

Taming the kitty…

• Bell the cat: One way to discourage staring and tension between cats is to put a bell on the aggressor; the bell warns the other cat.


• Keep the two cats separate: It is important that the victim not be frightened of the other cat. One elaborate way to reintroduce cats if they become hostile is to keep the aggressor in a less desirable area of the house behind a solid door, gradually replaced by a plastic door, a screen door, or a door open just a crack. It is not always possible to do this unfortunately but as an alternative the aggressor can be put in a cage while the other cat remains free.


• Feed them together: Feed the cats their meals together, although initially with their food bowls on opposite sides of the room. Gradually, move their food dishes closer together. When the aggressor is first let out of the cage, keep him on a harness.


• Medication for both: Medication for both cats, prescribed by a veterinarian, may be useful – to reduce aggression in one cat and reduce anxiety in the other.


• Careful with a pup: Don’t introduce a puppy to an adult cat - what is play to a puppy can be torture to a cat.


• Redirected aggression: Cats go after human as well, especially after what they may consider to be a threatening experience. Owners do get attacked, but most often it is a case of redirected aggression; a cat seeing another cat out of the window may become aroused and attack his companion cat, a dog or his owner. The cat picks the handiest target and it is a good example of how tenuous cat social bonds are.


• Work out a solution: Don’t let a bad attitude continue. Cats can become enemies forever unless you do something. It is wise to talk to your veterinarian as they will often have a good solution to the problems.

Thus, cattitude can be controlled and your kitty can be the epitome of love and friendship…your friend for life!

(Joan Henderson is based in Australia and she has judged furry felines in many other countries including the USA, Bermuda, Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong, Philippines and New Zealand).

Smarten up your Siberian

Comb up their tresses

The fur of Siberian does not tend to mat usually. They only tend to shed heavily twice a year, which can be prolonged depending on weather. You can comb your Siberian weekly but in shedding season, they ought to be combed every day, maybe more than once and I recommend a Furminator for shedding season.

Different combs for different age groups

Kittens: Use plastic combs to comb kittens’ fur. Kittens have fine silky fur and a comb with a fine tooth side on it,

[caption id="attachment_8262" align="alignright" width="250"] Joan E Henderson[/caption]

is an easy tool to use. Since they will bite the comb or brush, always keep two plastic combs handy.

Adult cats: As they get older, shift to steel and a full groom kit for the adult coat. The adults’ fur does nicely with the combs with a Furminator, which greatly cuts down on the shedding. A brush made of rubber called Pet Hair Elimator is very comfortable for the cat and a good tool for a cat who does not like grooming. You can use battery-powered ionic deep brush, which catches flying fur. And you can also use a fine rake brush. The cats seem to especially like the rubber brush as it feels like petting.

Tips to follow

• Always talk to your cats whilew grooming them, telling them what a wonderful experience it is.


• They must be taught as kittens too like grooming, so that they will enjoy it as adults when they really need it.


• If you have a problem with feces sticking to perianal hair, try trimming the hair shorter with scissors.


• With or without grooming, a kitten needs to be petted and played with every day.

So, make your grooming sessions fun and see your kitty really smarten up!

Purrfect felines in the show ring in America

The warmth and friendship of the people involved in the cat world is wonderful. Cat shows throughout the world are fascinating and it is a feast for the cat lovers.

Here’s some info about the American cat shows:

• The show is held over 2 days.


• The owners bring their cats to the judging cages and then sit back and watch the judge assess and often talk about their cat or kitten.


• The cages where the cats are held, when not being judged are beautifully decorated with colourful curtains and cushions while judging cages are not decorated in any way.


• There are 6-10 rings, making it a busy day for the judges, stewards, ring clerks, show manager, workers and the owners of the cats.


• There are All Breeds Rings and Specialty Rings. In an All Breeds Ring, the judge has both longhair and shorthair cats to assess against each other. In a Specialty Ring, the judge has All Longhairs or All Shorthairs but never the two groups against each other.


• Cats are judged on the basis of awarding points.


• Any cat or kitten who bites or scratches a judge is marked U.T.H. (unable to handle) and wins no awards and cannot be judged by any other judge on the day.


• The American style show generally awards beautiful Rosettes to the Top 10 cats. The most important thing when entering a show is - win or lose, you always take the best cat home.

(Joan E. Henderson of Melbourne, Australia has judged furry felines in Australia, USA, Bermuda, Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong, Philippines and New Zealand. She can be contacted at felines@hotkey.net.au)