Fun for Fluffy Feline

Check out these FIVE simple games you can play with your cat to keep her amused and active all day!

Pet parents often complain about their cats being lazy and inactive. By nature, cats are extremely playful and curious. They love exploring, hunting for things and chasing down moving objects. But the natural hunting instinct and playful spirit of the domestic cats often get stifled as they spend far too much time indoors. As a pet parent, you can help your cat come out of her sluggishness by constantly engaging her in games and fun activities. This will also help strengthen your bond with your feline companion.

Here are FIVE fun games that you can play with your cat to keep her physically and mentally fit and agile.

1. Chase the ball: You don’t need expensive toys to entertain your cat. A simple ping pong ball would do the trick. Just bounce a ping pong ball on the floor and watch your cat all excited, hopping along with it, trying to grab the ball. You could even roll the ball on the floor, and let your kitty chase it around the house. Ping pong balls are safe toys and being lightweight, they won’t hurt your cat, even if she gets hit by them.

2. Catch it if you can: While a rolling ball mimics the movement of mice, a wand toy mimics a fluttering bird, thereby capturing your cat’s attention. Wand toys are simple to make. Just take a piece of stick and attach a bright, colourful cloth or ribbon to its end. Wave the wand, move it in circular motions, and watch you kitty twist and turn, to get hold of it. Don’t forget to reward your kitty with treats, if she grabs the wand, and wins the game.

3. Follow the flash: Nothing can pique a cat’s curiosity more than a flickering, racing beam of light. Get a flashlight or a laser light and start moving it across the floor and up and down the wall. Move it in quick, irregular motions, and watch your cat pounce on the shimmering light, trying to grab it with her paws, and performing other funny acts, thinking it’s a firefly or some other insect.

4. Wrestling with blanket: Cats love rolling on the bed and hiding under the blanket. The next time you find your kitty lying lazily on the bed, grab a blanket and put your hand underneath. Then, move your fingers up and down and across the blanket. Your cat will instantly jump out of her torpidity, to catch your fingers, and be her usual animated self once again.

5. Bag of fun: That paper bag from the grocery store could be an interesting toy for your cat. Place an empty paper grocery bag in the middle of the room, or where your cat can see it. When your kitty jumps inside the bag, gently poke her from the sides, and move your fingers along the bag to amuse her, while she is busy exploring the bag.

Toy facts

• Like kids, your cat too can become bored with toys. You can keep a couple of toys at hand and give her a few to play with. When she is bored with them, stack them way and take out the rest. Likewise, change them with the earlier ones when she is through with the new ones.


• Include a variety of games in her playtime, and observe how she responds to each of these.


• If she loves a particular game or enjoys wrestling and snuggling with a particular toy, include that more often in her play.


• Make sure the toy you give her is safe.

Don’t mess with me!

Do you find your cat growling and hissing for no reason at all? Does your cat find it difficult to get along with other pets in the house, and often picks up a fight with the neighbourhood cats? Do you notice your cat acting annoyed and angry these days? If your feline companion is showing these and other signs of aggression, then it’s time that you take control of the situation, before it gets worse.

Signs of aggression in cats

Aggression in cats can be either offensive or defensive. Cats show offensive aggression when they want to attack or intimidate another cat or human; and show defensive aggression when they are under threat or feeling intimidated by another animal or person.

Though cats often communicate their feelings of anger and irritation through outward actions, body language and expressions, the signs of aggression may sometimes be subtle and may easily go unnoticed. Make sure you intently look out for these physical signs of aggression in your kitty.

• Growling and hissing for no apparent reason.


• Eyes staring directly at you.


• Upright ears (offensive posture) or ears flattened backward on the head (defensive posture).


• Raised fur along the neck, body and tail.


• l Tail pointing downwards towards the ground (offensive aggression), often moving in a back and forth swish, or tail turned sideways towards the opponent (defensive aggression).


• l Biting and scratching when petted or lifted.


• Frequent fights with other animals.

Causes of aggressive behaviour in cats

It’s important to diagnose the cause of aggression in order to treat the problem effectively. Your cat could be struggling with a health problem that’s causing her pain and discomfort, leading to an irritable mood; or it could be an environmental factor such as stress or boredom that might be making her furious. Below are some of the common causes of aggression in cats.

Illness or pain: Like us, cats also get grumpy and short-tempered when they are unwell or experiencing pain due to some illness. Several medical conditions such as hyperthyroidism, arthritis, dental diseases, epilepsy etc. have been known to cause aggression in cats. Consult a vet to identify any health problems that your cat might be suffering from.

Lack of healthy diet and exercise: Lack of nutritious diet and regular exercise is not only detrimental to your cat’s physical health, but it can also negatively impact her mental fitness, leading to moodiness and unhealthy behaviours.

Mistreatment: Has your cat been exposed to some sort of abuse or mistreatment in the past? Has she been ever attacked by some other animal? Painful experiences and mental trauma can cause her to avoid socialising with other animals and resist contact with humans.

Fearful situations: When cats find themselves in a frightening situation, they display defensive aggression. Your cat might be afraid of a pet dog, a particular person in the house, or something as harmless as a moving toy. Identify any such objects, animals or people that might be triggering aggressive behaviour in her.

Stressful surroundings: It’s essential that you provide your pet with a healthy environment, devoid of unnecessary stress. Your cat may experience stress due to different factors such as lack of space to move around and sleep, noisy surroundings, and being forced to live alongside things she fears, like a pet dog or another cat.

Territorial aggression: Cats, like dogs and other animals, strive to protect their territory and tend to attack other animals and even humans when they intrude into their space. Cats may chase other cats, and display other offensive signs such as biting, growling and swatting to keep out intruders and defend their territory.

Aggression between male cats: Unneutered male cats, as they reach adulthood, show aggressive behaviour towards other male cats, and get into fights, challenging and competing with them for mates.

Ways to deal with aggressive cats

• Take good care of your cat’s health by feeding her nutritious food.


• Incorporate games and other activities to keep her mentally fit, and to shave off boredom and moodiness that often lead to aggressive behaviours.


• Consult a vet to rule out on medical conditions that could be causing the problem.


• Watch out for warning signs of aggression. Pay attention to your kitty’s body language, and expressions before she gets into the aggressive mode, and try distracting her with catnip or lure toy, whenever you see an attack coming.


• Pet parents often underestimate their cat’s ability to hurt them. Do not encourage your cat to engage in rough play, and grip your hands and legs with their claws. Keep your cat’s claws trimmed to avoid them from causing serious injury while playing.


• Do not force your cat to do things she does not want to do. If she does not seem interested in playing, or tries to get away from you, don’t pursue her or restrain her in any way.


• If you have been monitoring your cat’s behaviour, and have still not been able to identify the problem, then consider seeking professional help and consulting an animal behaviour specialist for detailed analysis of the issue.

It’s purrfect!

Most cats communicate through a variety of vocal noises, such as purring, hissing, meowing, to name a few. They generally display their own personalities through these vocalisations and most people find them very endearing... sometimes though they can be very annoying.

Purring/meowing is the cat’s way of getting your attention and this is quite normal. Obviously during mating season, the vocalisation from your cat increases and this can become quite annoying. Siameses are known to have a much louder purr/meow than most other breeds whereas Abyssinians and Persians are generally rather quiet cats.

The various sounds: Cats purring loudly for their dinner is quite different to the cat who meows very loudly in the middle of the night – generally demanding attention. If they do not get the attention they desire, then obviously the purring/meowing becomes louder and louder. Hissing, however, is a totally different situation and the cat is letting you know he is not pleased about something.

Excessive vocalisation: It is, however, difficult to actually describe excessive vocalisation as all cats are different. It really depends on how much ‘noise’ the pet parent is prepared to put up with.

The attention-seekers: A lot may have to do with the time of day... is it getting close to meal time and you are being rather slow to provide their dinner? Do they want you to play with them or do they want to go outside?

Purring in discomfort: It is also wise to make sure that your cat is not unwell or injured and this is the only way they can get our attention to help them... the sounds they make in cases such as that are generally very different to those they make when all is well.

Getting their own way: Pet parents must always keep in mind that cats are highly intelligent animals and they can soon learn what I call THE DRIP SYSTEM – if they keep pestering us for long enough we will eventually give in. It is like a dripping tap that is hard to ignore – we soon stop what we are doing and go and turn the tap off.... cats work on the assumption that we will soon give them the attention they want – regardless of what we are doing.

If a cat learns that her pet parent will immediately pay her attention, then she will soon realise that loud purring/meowing will get her what she wants – even if it is only more attention! It is hard to ignore a cat who constantly seeks attention but like a naughty child we need to limit the time we give her – especially if we are very busy – and eventually the cat will realise.

(Joan E Henderson is based in Australia and she has judged furry felines in many other countries including USA, Bermuda, Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong, Philippines and New Zealand)

Thought for toys

Your kitty loves her toys... these are her most prized possessions. You need not to buy her expensive toys every time, even paper bags can keep her entertained.

Just like a child, your kitty loves to play. Here’s how to keep your kitty engaged and happy:

• Keep an array of toys for your cat but limit her access to a few toys at a time. Rotate them every few days.


• Toss a balled-up tissue or waxed paper and let your kitty play the ‘catch and kill’ game.


• Give her a couple of ping-pong balls when she is bathing.


• The round centres of tissue rolls, tapes, etc make excellent kitty toys.


• Paper bags without handles and cardboard boxes encourage her curiosity. You will find her exploring them for hours on end.


• Old cotton socks with catnip or soft material and tied at the end will act as a stimulant for her.


• Empty clean containers and bottles which can roll on the floor can keep her amused.


• Do not give her anything which she can swallow as it can be dangerous.


• Toys without glue-on decorations or trim are fine. In case your kitty loves a toy with some decorations that can be harmful, remove them. Don’t worry if you have an ugly looking toy without eyes or hair – your kitty loves it, so who cares?

Games your kitty always loves to play

Cats love to play. Here are some simple but playful games to keep their boredom at bay.

Ping pong: You can entertain your kitty with a ping pong ball, which is lightweight. It would be good idea to play in a long hallway where your cat can chase the ball freely to her heart’s content.

Lost & found: Get a rubber ball or a marble to make it lost in a carton. Keep the size of the ball safe so that she cannot swallow it. Let her dig the ball out of the carton to the floor where she can roll upon it to the fullest playful mood.

An empty paper bag: Whenever you empty a grocery paper sack, don’t throw it away. It could be great item for your kitty and keep her occupied.

Light, action! A small flashlight or laser beam moving up and down your room’s wall or across the floor is always exciting to your kitty. Quick or zigzag move of the light gives her a lot of exercise chasing the light. But don’t shine laser beam on her eyes.

Play while working: You can play while doing household chores. Just tie a piece of string around your ankle with an 8-10 inch length of its tailing behind. Whenever you move, it would excite the cat to chase the string. But be careful while stepping back.

Aggression between cats

Your cat’s best friend may not be another cat. Cats are very territorial creatures and often vehemently defend their turf.

Two’s company

Many people adopt a second cat thinking that the resident cat will be happy. This is a risky move. Just because your cat is sweet and loving with you doesn’t mean he’s going to be sweet to another cat.

Although you can increase the chances that they will get along or at least tolerate one another by making proper introductions, there’s no way to predict whether cats will get along with each other. Unfortunately, there’s no training method that can guarantee that they ever will. But we’re here to help negotiate a truce.

Types of aggressive behaviours

First, let’s understand the different types of aggression and what causes them.

Territorial aggression: This occurs when a cat feels that an intruder has invaded her territory. A cat may be aggressive toward one cat (usually the most passive), yet friendly and tolerant with another. Problems often occur when a new cat is brought home, a young kitten reaches maturity, or a cat sees or encounters neighborhood cats outside. Typical behavior includes stalking, chasing, ambushing, hissing, loud meowing, swatting, and preventing access to places (such as the litter box, bedroom, etc.) Female cats can be just as territorial as males.

Inter-male aggression: Adult male cats may threaten, and sometimes fight with, other males. This is more common among unneutered cats. They may fight over a female, for a higher place on the totem pole, or to defend territory. Cats stalk, stare, yowl, howl, and puff up their fur (picture the arched back of the Halloween cat) to back each other down. If one does back down and walk away, the aggressor, having made his point, will usually walk away as well.

If no one backs down, cats may actually fight. They may roll around biting, kicking, swatting, and screaming, suddenly stop, resume posturing, fight again, or walk away. If you see signs that a fight may occur, distract the cats by clapping loudly, tossing a pillow nearby, or squirting them with water. These actions can also be used to break up a fight. Keep your distance.

Defensive aggression: Defensive aggression occurs when a cat tries to protect himself from an animal or human attacker he believes he can’t escape. This can occur in response to: Punishment or the threat of punishment from a person; An attack or attempted attack from another cat; Any incident that makes the animal feel threatened or afraid.

Defensive postures include: Crouching with the legs and tail pulled in under the body; Flattening the ears against the head, Rolling slightly to the side, continuing to approach a cat in this posture is likely to cause an attack.

Redirected aggression: Cats direct this type of aggression toward another animal, or even a person, who didn’t initially provoke the behaviour. For example, your cat is sitting in the window and sees an outdoor cat walk across the front yard. He gets very agitated because that cat is in his territory. You pet him; he turns and bites you. He doesn’t even know who you are at that point—he’s so worked up about the cat outside that he attacks the first thing that crosses his path.

Smoothing ruffled feathers

Your first step should always be to contact your veterinarian for a thorough health examination. Cats often hide symptoms of illness until they’re seriously ill; your aggressive cat may be feeling sick and taking out his misery on others.

If your cat gets a clean bill of health, consult your vet or an animal behaviour specialist for help. A behaviourist will advise you on what can be done. You may need to start the introduction process all over again, keep the cats in separate areas of your home, or even find one of the cats a new home if the aggression is extreme and can’t be resolved.

Consult with your veterinarian about a short course of anti-anxiety medication for your cats while you’re working on changing their behavior/s. Never medicate your cat on your own.

Prevent future fights

This could mean keeping the cats separated from each other while you work on the problem, or at least preventing contact between them during situations likely to trigger a fight.

Spay or neuter your pets. The behaviour of one intact animal can negatively affect all of your pets.

What to avoid

Don’t count on the cats to “work things out.” The more they fight, the worse the problem is likely to become. To stop a fight in progress, make a loud noise (like blowing a whistle), squirt the cats with water or throw something soft at them. Don’t touch them, or you might get seriously scratched or bitten. Seek medical attention if you’re injured.

Don’t punish the cats involved. Punishment could cause further aggression and fearful responses, which will only make the problem worse. You could even become a target for redirected aggression.

Don’t add more cats. Some cats are willing to share their house and territory with multiple cats, but the more cats who share the same territory, the more likely it is that some of your cats will not get along with each other.

It’s a mystery

Many factors determine how well cats will get along with one another, but even animal behaviour experts don’t fully understand them. We do know that cats who are well-socialized (those who had pleasant experiences with other cats during kittenhood) will likely be more sociable than those who haven’t been around many other cats.

On the other hand, “street cats,” who are in the habit of fighting withother cats to defend their territory and food, might not do well in a multi-cat household.

(This article is contributed by Humane Society of the United States (HSUS). Established in 1954, HSUS seeks a humane and sustainable world for all animals; www.hsus.org)

Just say ‘no’ aversive training your cat

As much as you love him, it can be hard to maintain warm, fuzzy feelings when your cat scratches the furniture, jumps on the counters, or gnaws on plants. Of course, he’s just doing what comes naturally. Yelling or hitting won’t deter the bad behaviour, but it will make your cat fearful of you, which is certainly not your goal. So what can you do?

Remote control

Aversive training uses textures, odours, tastes, sounds, and other methods to correct your cat’s behaviour in a way that’s unpleasant for him, but has nothing to do with you. Let’s say your cat tends to chew on electrical cords, a very dangerous habit. Smear hot sauce on the cords. He’ll quickly learn that chewing on them is no fun at all, and you’re still the good guy. In addition to deterring him from undesired behaviour, you’ll need to provide an acceptable alternative for him to express his needs. Tools of the trade A basic aversive training toolbox contains: Unpleasant textures: Nubby plastic carpet runner, duct tape, rough rocks, anything that won’t feel good to your cat’s paws. Bad tastes: Hot sauce or a non-toxic spray or ointment available at pet supply stores Bad smells: Cologne and citrus scents. Loud sounds: Whistle, can of pennies or pebbles, pot lids, book dropped on floor, hand clapping. Surprises: A squirt from a water bottle, a blast of canned air.

Using your tools

The advantages of having so many training tools are flexibility and creativity. You can pick, choose, and adapt your tools to any situation. If duct tape doesn’t work, try carpet runner. If your cat likes Bitter Apple, use hot sauce. If he ignores a squirt of water, blow a whistle. You can even combine your tools to send a really strong message.

Element of surprise

Aversives such as noises and surprises are effective training tools when you’re home to watch your cat’s movements. If you catch him considering whether or not to jump on the coffee table, kitchen counter, etc, don’t shout at him; instead, interrupt him by squirting him with water, blowing a whistle, or throwing a pillow in his direction (don’t hit him). These actions are intended to startle and distract him from his intended mission. Try to take action from outside his line of sight so he won’t associate it with you. He’ll think the coffee table did it. You can also use noises and surprises if your cat starts scratching or chewing something, tries to run out the front door, or engages in any other type of naughtiness. (Note: Don’t use surprise methods if you have a particularly timid or fearful cat. It’s not good for his nerves.)

Timing is everything

The right timing is crucial to the success of these methods. You have to catch your cat in the act in order for them to be effective. If you squirt him or blow the whistle after he’s finished, he won’t connect the consequence with his behaviour, and your effort will be wasted. But you can’t follow your cat around the house or be home 24x7 to supervise; that’s when your other tools come in handy.

Passive aversive

Passive aversives are training methods that don’t require you to be directly involved—a disagreeable odour, a bad taste, or an uncomfortable texture can make your cat think twice about doing what he’s doing. Here are some of the most common cat habits and ways to reduce or stop them:

Scratching carpet or furniture

• Cover favoured areas with plastic carpet runner, nubby side up, until the cat stops scratching.


• Spray areas with cologne or citrus scents, which cats don’t like and usually avoid. Test surfaces for staining by spraying on a hidden area first.

Jumping on tables, counters, etc.

• Cover with plastic carpet runner, nubby side up.


• Cover large pieces of cardboard with double-sided tape or loops of duct tape, then place cardboard on surfaces. Your cat won’t like his feet sticking to the tape.


• Set a few upside-down mousetraps that will snap when he touches them, but won’t hurt him.


• Tie some soda cans together and set them up on the surface. He’ll knock them over when he jumps up.

Chewing plants, cords, wood, etc.

• Spray plants with Bitter Apple, cologne or citrus scents


• Apply hot sauce, Bitter Apple ointment, or aloe gel to cords, wood, other solid surfaces

Digging in plants

• Cover soil with aluminium foil or small, rough rocks

Feline fun

Your cat’s habits may be incompatible with your lifestyle, but they’re perfectly normal for him. Give him approved outlets for his natural behaviour so he’ll be less tempted to use your stuff. Place scratching posts near his favourite hang-outs so he won’t go for the couch or carpet. Give him a tall cat tree to satisfy his instinct to watch the world from on high. Make sure he has toys of all shapes and materials to keep him from destroying your belongings. And shower him with time and attention as often as time allows.

(This article is contributed by Humane Society of the United States (HSUS). Established in 1954, HSUS seeks a humane and sustainable world for all animals; www.hsus.org)

What’s normal? What's not?

Find out about your cat’s behaviour.

• Sleepyheads: Cats love to sleep and will keep sleeping even if it is noisy.


• Scratching: It is a normal behaviour for a cat to scratch. In order to prevent this unwanted behaviour, train him right when he is a kitten.


• Cats eat frequently: Cats eat frequently, sometimes even a nibble. Frequent eating keeps their digestive condition in an optimal condition.


• Fasting for a day or two: Sometimes, a cat does not eat for a day or two – this is normal as long as they do not appear sick. If you have doubts, do consult your vet.


• Hiding litter: Cats are clean creatures and they do not like to show their litter. They cover and hide up their business. So, keep their litterboxes in a secluded place and change litter frequently.


• Not using litterbox: If your cat has suddenly stopped using his litterbox, it could be a sign of illness. Contact your vet immediately.

Little miss PURRFECT

Cats are smart – and have their own personalities, here’s how to teach kitty etiquettes.

• Cats do acquire a working vocabulary of many words, and every cat has her own individuality. Your cat can be taught by positive reinforcements.


• First, cats learn language by being talked to. Try to use the same words over and over. Talk to your cat when giving her treats, petting her, when grooming her, when playing with her, and when handling her. Let your tone of voice carry message as well as your words.


• Cats learn from physical reinforcement. Take your cat to a scratching post if she scratches your furniture or rugs. Put her in the litter box and scratch her front feet in the litter box. She will understand. Do this several times for a cat being first introduced to your household. When you want your cat to learn to come being called, reinforce this by always offering a treat or food when you call her, and call the same way each time. For example, “Here kitty, kitty, Moonbeam Kitty” every time you put out food or offer a treat.


• Most important, cats do NOT learn from punishment. Almost never is physical punishment a good tool to change your cat’s behaviour in a direction you want. Instead, you must focus on positives: Provide opportunities for good behaviour. Reinforce good behaviour when it occurs with treats, petting, and praise. Reinforce your own positive presence by treats and by play.


• Eliminate stressful interaction opportunities whenever possible.

(Kit Humphrey, featured columnist of Cats & Kittens, is a retired physician from Siberian Gatos Cattery in the US)

Solving litter box problems

You can resolve litter box issues by taking a closer look at your cat’s environment.

Cause and effect

If you’re having a hard time persuading your cat to use the litter box, it just may be time to draw a line in the sand. Most cats take to using a litter box very easily because their instinct is to bury their urine and feces. But when their preferences include the laundry basket, the bed or the Persian rug, you’ve got a problem.

There’s always a reason they stop using their box and it’s not to make you mad or get revenge. Take a close look at what’s going on in your cat’s world. You should be able to uncover the source of trouble, and make the changes.

The case of multiple cats: a whodunit

If you only have one cat, it’s obvious who’s misbehaving. But what if you have more than one? You need to do some detective work.

It’s a process of elimination, which means you will isolate one cat at a time to see if the inappropriate behaviour stops while he’s in isolation. This method isn’t foolproof, however, because if the culprit’s behaviour is stress-induced, it may not occur if isolating him has removed him from the source of stress.

Another method is adding fluorescent dye to the cats’ food (one cat at a time). The dye will glow in the cat’s urine when a black light is held over it. You have your culprit. Now that we know who it is, what do we do about it?

Medical issues

If your male cat stops using the litter box, spends a lot of time trying to go or licking his genitals, get him to the vet immediately. This may be a sign that he has a urinary tract infection or much worse, a blockage. This causes pain when urinating which he may associate with using the box, causing him to avoid it. Some cats will even urinate and cry right in front of you or go in the bathtub or sink to let you know something’s wrong.

Urinary tract problems can be very serious, especially in male cats because their urethra (the tube that empties urine from their bladder), is narrow and more easily plugged than a female’s wider urethra. A cat whose urinary tract is blocked can die within hours or suffer irreversible organ damage from the build up of toxins in his system. Don’t wait around thinking it will clear up by itself. And don’t be fooled into thinking that your cat is constipated. It could happen, but it’s more likely to be a urinary problem.

If your kitty gets a clean bill of health from the vet, his problem is all in his head.

Why, why, why?

Many cats are perfectly happy with everything about their litter boxes and don’t care how many there are, where they are, or what’s in them. Then there are those who are pickier. These cats may have any number of reasons (known only to them) for deciding the litter box is an unpleasant place to eliminate.

• The box isn’t clean enough for her.


• She doesn’t like the type of box: It’s too big, too small, too high, too low, has a hood, doesn’t have a hood, too hard to get into, and so on.


• She doesn’t like the litter: It’s clay, it’s clumping, scented, unscented, too hard, too soft, she doesn’t like litter at all, there’s too much, not enough, etc.


• She doesn’t like the location: It’s out in the open, too hard to get to, next to a noisy appliance, in the basement when she wants it in the living room, etc.


• She’s too young, too old, or too unwell to make it to the basement to use the box. >


• She was startled by something or someone or “ambushed” by another pet while she was in it.


• There aren’t enough boxes for the number of cats you have.


• Something in her environment or routine has changed. She’s anxious and is marking her territory to reassure or assert herself.


• She associates the box with punishment. (For example, someone punished her for eliminating outside the box, and then placed her in it.)

Sometimes, the original source of the problem may not be the reason it’s continuing. For example, your cat may have stopped using the litter box because of a urinary tract infection; the infection is gone, but she now prefers the carpet or the bedroom closet. If that’s the case, you’ll need to address all of these factors to resolve the problem.

Here are some important tips on preventing litter box problems in the first place:

The road to recovery

You think you’ve figured out what’s put kitty’s tail in a twist; now let’s fix it.

>Move it

If your cat was just fine with her litter box situation, but is now unhappy because you’ve changed something about it, by all means, change it back! It’s better for you to be inconvenienced than the cat. If your cat always eliminates in quiet, protected places, such as under a desk, beneath a staircase, in a corner, or in a closet; she eliminates in an area where the litter box was previously kept or where there are urine odours; or she eliminates on a different level of the home, here are some solutions.

• Put a litter box in the location where your cat has been eliminating. When she has consistently used this box for at least one month, you may gradually move it to a more convenient location at a rate of an inch—seriously!—per day.


• Put at least one litter box on every level of your home. (Remember, a properly cleaned litter box does not smell). This is especially important if you have kittens, elderly, or ill cats who don’t have the strength to go all the way to the basement each time they need to use the box.


• To make the spots where she’s been eliminating less appealing to your cat, cover them with upside-down carpet runner or aluminium foil, place citrus-scented cotton balls over the areas, or place water bowls there (because cats often don’t like to eliminate near where they eat or drink).

Clean house

Clean the soiled areas well. Animals are highly motivated to continue soiling an area that smells like urine or feces. A cat’s sense of smell is much stronger than a human’s, so it’s important to clean the soiled areas thoroughly and properly.

Find urine stains with a fluorescent black light, available at hardware and pet supply stores. The stains will glow under the black light. Once you locate a stain, clean it with an enzymatic cleaner made especially for pet odours, available at pet supply stores. Don’t use ammonia or other strong-smelling household cleaners. These will encourage your cat to re-mark in that area.

You may have to clean the area several times to remove the odour completely, even treating the carpet padding and sub flooring underneath. Clean the area thoroughly before steam cleaning to avoid “locking in” the odour.

Surfaces

All animals develop preferences for a particular surface on which they like to eliminate. These preferences may be established early in life, but they may also change overnight for reasons that we don’t always understand. Your cat may have a surface preference if she consistently eliminates on a particular texture—for example, soft things like carpeting, bedding, or clothing, or smooth surfaces such as tile, cement, bathtubs, or sinks. Or maybe she frequently scratches on this same texture after elimination, even if she eliminates in the litter box. Sometimes a previously outdoor-only cat prefers to eliminate on grass or soil.

If your cat’s eliminating on soft surfaces, try using a soft litter made of pine shavings. You could also try shredded newspaper, or even a piece of carpet in the box (you’ll have to change it often, of course). Try to convert her to litter by sprinkling it over the carpet, gradually adding more if she doesn’t object.

If your cat’s eliminating on slick, smooth surfaces, try giving her an empty box or putting a very thin layer of litter at one end of the box. Leave the other end bare, and put the box on a hard floor.

If your cat has a history of being outdoors, use dirt.

(This article is contributed by Humane Society of the Unites States (HSUS). Established in 1954, HSUS seeks a humane and sustainable world for all animals; www.hsus.org)

Being ‘Nosey’!

There is no animal who will investigate a different smell more earnestly than the cat. Their sense of smell is highly developed and very little escapes them.

Cats will pick up new smells in many ways... their owner’s clothing, another cat’s coat, smells coming in from an open window, plants and perfume. Sniffing seems to intensify the smell and the desire to investigate becomes paramount until their quest is complete.

Smell.... right from beginning...

It seems that almost from birth, kittens develop this keen sense of smell and react very strongly to unpleasant and offensive odours. It is important that this sense of smell is developed early so that they can pick up the mammary glands of their mother and it appears that within 3-4 days they have selected the one nipple that they prefer to nurse from and generally return to it every time they drink.

It is the smell that guides kittens back to their area and they become quite distressed if they are not able to return to the

area where they have become accustomed to a certain smell. When kittens begin to roam, they seem to have no trouble finding their way back to their own bedding or where their mother is resting. Despite the fact that once they are able to see they still rely on the smell of familiar areas.

We have all seen a cat curling their top lip and this occurs as a cat inhales odours that are not familiar to them. At approximately six weeks of age, a kitten will sniff odours, such as urine or droppings and is often seen touching the odour followed by the raising of their head, wrinkling their nose and pulling their lip back and opening their mouth. Tomcats do this regularly when they are out seeking a mate or when they sense that another Tomcat has been in their area.

Using their sense of smell...

• Most cats, although not all, love the smell of plants, valerian and catnip and they also like many other herbs as well.


• Perfume can be almost intoxicating to a cat and they often endeavour to wash their owners clean from the area of the perfume on the body.


• Cats will sit as near to the oven and stove as they can, and still be safe, and absorb the smell of the evening meal... licking their lips in anticipation of sharing this beautifully interesting meal.


• Few cats have a problem in finding food that has been put away but with the smell still lingering. Their sniff takes them directly to that piece of meat which appears hidden to us, but not to the cat and his nose.


• The mating of the cat is also vitally connected to their sense of smell. Male cats can locate a female in heat a great distance away. Unfortunately he also encounters other cats who have picked up the same scent and battle for supremacy.


• Cats can tell if strangers have been in their surroundings and they seem to readily recognise the smell of their pet parents.


• Moving home can bring on quite distressing moods in cats until they have settled into their new environment so we should always endeavour to bring something from their previous home which will have a familiar scent and have a calming effect on the cat.

(Joan Henderson is based in Australia and she has judged furry felines in many other countries including USA, Bermuda, Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong, Philippines and New Zealand)

You are their love…their life…

Often, we have heard and read that ‘Cats are independent creatures,’ but it is not so. They are dependent on their pet parents for various needs – love, care and attention. Let’s see how.

When you bring home a kitty, you bring home a treasure of memories. You love her antics, you love the way she yawns, her nature – sometimes indifferent, sometimes playful…you just love spending time with her. Yes, they do seem to be independent, but they need you in their life, just like you need them in yours. Here’s how you can help your kitty have an enjoyable time at your home:

• Make your home kitty-safe: Drop down on all fours and look around your house – make your home kitty safe.


• Take care of her meals: Consult your vet and give her cat food at specified intervals.


• Give her a comfy bed: Cats love to sleep. Give your kitty a nice comfy bed to sleep – warm and cosy - that’s how her bed should be.


• Give your cat her ID: Always put an identification tag around your cat’s neck, just in case, she strays out and is not able to come back home.


• Keep her litter tray clean: Cats are clean creatures, keep their litter trays clean too!


• Groom her even though she can groom herself: Even though they are very good at grooming themselves, they still need to be groomed to detect any problems in the skin.


• Play with her: When you play with your cat, she feels cared for. They love to chase, so bring her cat toys to keep her occupied.


• Spend quality time: Some pet parents think that cats can be left alone as they are happy themselves. But it is not so. They too need company – yours and other pets.


• Take care of her health: They need to be regularly monitored to detect any signs of illness. Take them to your vet at regular intervals.


• Be prepared for emergencies: They depend on you to take care of them in case of emergencies, keep your vet’s number and a first-aid kit handy.

Is your kitty suffering from Separation anxiety

Do you often come home to shredded couch and tattered cushions? Do you find your kitty going berserk when you are about to leave home? Does your feline friend greet you with frantic joy when you return home after a long day at work? If you have been observing these and many other signs in your feline friend, don’t take the matter lightly. Your kitty could be suffering from what is known as the separation anxiety. Here’s how to handle it.

Cats suffer from separation anxiety, recent studies conducted by animal behaviour specialists have shown that our feline friends also crave for constant companionship and get flustered when they don’t find their pet parents around. Unlike dogs who howl loudly and get uncontrollably aggressive, cats are more subtle when it comes to displaying signs of separation anxiety.

You have got to have a keen eye to understand what your kitty is trying to tell you. Here are few signs to look out for, to find out if your cat is suffering from separation anxiety:

Extreme attachment: Is your kitty so attached to you that she follows you around the house? Does she mingle as freely with the other members in your family as she does with you? Cats suffering from separation anxiety show extreme attachment to their owners. Extreme dependency and clinginess could indicate separation anxiety in cats.

Pre-separation blues: When you are leaving home, do you find your cat displaying unusual behaviour like incessant meowing, hiding, sulking, etc. These behaviour changes indicate the pre-separation blues your cat is going through when you are about to leave home and the ways she is trying to grab your attention to stop you from leaving.

Desolation distress: When left alone at home your cat would express her dismay by

• Meowing and moaning loudly.


• Refusing to eat food even if it is her favourite food in the feeding bowl.


• Displaying aggressiveness by scratching doors, walls and fighting with cushions.


• Urinating and defecating near the door, on your clothes and at other inappropriate places.


• Compulsive self-grooming and excessive licking to the point of developing bald spots on her skin.

Joy of companionship: Upon reaching home, do you find your kitty greeting you like you have been away for years? Chances are that she has been really missing you and is now overjoyed at your return. Now that you are sure that your feline friend is struggling with separation anxiety. Here are few things you can do to get hold of the situation:

Your attitude: Don’t pay attention to your cat when you are preparing to leave and for few minutes after you reach home. By not paying heed to her until she calms down and behaves normally, you can reinforce good behaviour in your cat.

Training to stay alone: Let your kitty get used to the idea of being alone. Start by leaving her alone in the house for few minutes on a regular basis and slowly increase the time span. That way she would get over her fear of being alone and become more independent.

Reinforcing positive things with being alone: Distract your kitty by bringing out her favourite toy or a treat filled toy when you are leaving. Remove these toys when you get back home so that your kitty gets to enjoy these toys only when she is all alone. This would cause her to associate positive experiences with being alone and she would begin to look forward to the alone time.

No boredom blues: Make the environment at home more comfortable and stimulating so that your kitty is entertained and distracted from the thoughts of loneliness. A comfortable couch near the window from where your curious kitty can enjoy a nice view, a nice toy to cuddle with, climbing structures to help her move around freely and some food dispensing toys can go a long way in staving off boredom and keeping your kitty engaged.

Make her a family cat: Acquaint your cat with all members in the family. Encourage others to take turns in feeding her, playing with her and grooming her. That way your cat will become more amiable and you can have others to take care of her when you are not around.

Seek vet’s advice: Discuss this problem with the veterinarian. Your vet would be able to analyse the underlying cause of separation anxiety and prescribe some medications if needed.

Conquering separation anxiety takes time. Be patient and supportive towards your cat and she would be able to boost her confidence and become more comfortable with the idea of being alone.

Good idea to keep a cat and a dog together?

‘They fight like cats and dogs’ – the age old expression always had us believe that no two animals could be fiercer enemies of one another. But what if you are smitten by both a dog and a cat and just can’t stay away from both?

A happy story…

Kirti Tarang, a professional with Childline India from Mumbai, had no choice. “For me it wasn’t a deliberate step. I had a Labrador at my place and then one day, I found that a cat has given birth to three kittens in my store-room and had died in the process. Those kittens were so small and vulnerable. I had no other option but to keep them with me,” she says. But, how in the world did she manage to keep her dog, Jenny and cat, Milu from clawing at each other’s faces? “I had no intentions of introducing them to each other. The kittens were two weeks old. I was feeding them with a bottle. I didn’t even realize when Jenny came and sat there. It just happened naturally,” says Kirti. “Queen Milu (the sole survivor of the three) hits Jenny a lot whenever she gets a chance and Jenny eats Milu’s Whiskers whenever she gets a chance. But Jenny always protects her from stray dogs and cats,” she adds.

What an animal activist says…

Poorva Joshipura, an animal activist from PETA, says that if dogs and cats are brought together at a young age, they can often live as companions. However, because of their inherently different natures, owners need to take utmost care during introductions, even at a young age. “Introductions could be dangerous if the dog perceives the cat as prey and so interactions must be managed with planning, care, patience and supervision,” she says.

If you are a cat owner planning to bring in a dog, Poorva suggests consulting an expert from shelters or rescue groups to get a dog who’s known to be tolerant to cats. And if you are a dog owner planning to introduce a cat, make sure your dog is on a leash, or obedient and trained to listen to you. “The introductions should be slow, with the cat being permitted to first get used to the smell of the dog from another room and then the dog brought in after a few days on a leash into the cat’s room. Do not permit the dog to chase and frighten the cat, even in play.

“Reward good behaviour of both animals with treats. After this, keep the dog on a leash for some weeks in the cat’s presence and always make sure the cat has a way to escape from the dog, such as by putting a baby gate across the door to a safe area. Build up the time the animals spend together and continue to make introductions rewarding, with more treats and praise,” she advises.

What a vet says…

Dr SK Chaudhary, a veterinary doctor from Delhi, says that a lot of people nowadays are keeping dogs and cats together as pets and it’s nothing unusual. He agrees that it’s easier for the owner when both are young and introduced into the family, but it’s not like they will lunge at each other’s throats otherwise.

Are there any special health procedures that you need to keep in mind? “No, there aren’t any special procedures. They are the same that you would otherwise have your pets undergo – standard regular check-ups, vaccinations etc,” he says.

Being a vet, he would have had ample experience with dogs to know which breeds are more suitable to keep along with a cat, so I asked him the question. “Any breed is ok, as long as he’s friendly and a good companion. Obviously, Labradors and Retrievers are more friendly, but even if you get a Doberman at a young age, he shouldn’t be a problem for the cat,” he replies.

A practical way…

Danika Dalal from Mumbai, who has (wait for it) eight cats and four dogs (!), agrees. She is an ardent pet lover who has had pets at home even before she was born. “When I got my kittens, I kept them in a separate room with the other cats because I had dogs who had already grown up. They are not at all aggressive, but they think the kitten is a soft toy and want to play with it. Of course, that can’t be fun for the kitten, which might get a heavy paw on her little head. So yes, you do have to keep them separate for a while, and when they are together, be on a watch,” she says.

Of course, you can’t avoid a fight forever. “Yes, there are fights sometimes, especially when my feisty tomcat, Mikey decides to pick a fight with the dogs.” But Danika has a simple yet ingenious method of breaking the fight, because obviously interfering in the brawl is a bad idea, unless you are ready to get scratched or bitten. “I just throw a big mug filled with water at Mikey, and because cats don’t like water, he takes off the next second!” she says, laughing. What a marvellous way of cooling off tempers.

So, there you have it. Cats and dogs are not sworn enemies after all! A little bit of attention, and a lot of love and care is all you need. So, if you love both dogs and cats, get yourself a dynamic duo today!

Fun ‘n’ frolic

Kittens love to play. They love to pounce on things and other kittens. Here are a few tips to make playing fun for them

 

• If they are separated from their siblings, they must be provided with small toys that skitter and move when they pounce on them and interactive play when you are home, such as a Cat Dancer.


• Play with them interactively a minimum of twice a day in prolonged play.


• Leave other toys out when you are tired or unavailable.


• Anything on a string so you can make it jump is wonderful, but the kitten will tear it apart, so make sure it is safe for them as they do so.


• All our cats loved the ping pong ball in the ring and the Cat Dancer. Many are very fancy such sparkly Mylar crinkle balls, and some kittens definitely prefer the sparkly things.
  
   


• It is good to rotate toys out of their sight for a few weeks at a time to keep a toy from getting old and boring.


• Cats love to knead. If they have claws they will scratch. Immediately give them a scratching post or place.


• You can buy a cat tree.


• As they love to climb, especially as they get older, some form of tower or tree is recommended. Spray it with catnip to make it desirable at once, and take your kitten to it every time s/he scratches.

(Kiturah Humphrey, featured columnist of Cats & Kittens, is a retire physician. From Siberian Gatos Cattery in the US, she is responsible for cattery policies and choices that include a programme to eliminate Corona Virus, HCM, Bartonella, Toxoplasmosis, etc.)

Minding his own business…

Cats are easy to maintain, particularly in matters of house training. They like to bury their waste, are fastidiously clean, and are creatures of strong habit. These factors make house training very easy to achieve.

 

Natural way to deal with nature’s call

By the time kittens are seven or eight weeks old, they will have learnt to tidy up after themselves. Many experts believe that they learn this by watching their mothers or siblings. That’s why you will almost never find a cat excreting near his sleeping or food area.

Others believe that this behaviour is more instinctive and stems from a desire to conceal their scent from predators or dominant cats. In a home, the cat perceives the human to be dominant, and covers up his litter to avoid offending our sensibilities.

Either way, if your kitten is around two months old, he has probably already got into the habit of covering up, or if younger, will just need to be shown how by you, his new mother!

Showing the way

If you prefer your cat to use a garden or the outdoors, make sure he has constant access to it. A cat door or flap is invaluable, and once fixed, the cat will take to it in no time at all.

If your pet is a house cat, I would strongly recommend the use of kitty litter in a litter box, as this desiccates and deodourises the urine and faeces.

A few things to keep in mind while training a cat:

• Keep the litter box in a secluded area. Cats are usually shy about their business.


• Keep the litter box in one place. They don’t appreciate constant moves.


• Place a newspaper soaked in the urine in the litter box, to draw the kitten towards it. They love its sandy texture and this satisfies their natural urge to dig and bury.


• You could use commercially available litter boxes, or make one with a clean milk crate or plastic tub. Just make sure the cat has enough room, and doesn’t accidentally paw the litter over the sides of the tub.


• Restrict access to other tempting, but undesirable places to eliminate, and discourage kitty when he attempts to use another place. (Punishing cats once the deed is done is rarely effective).

Litter box care

• One of the most common reasons for failure of litter box training is not keeping the litter box clean enough. Scoop out clumps of dried litter at least once a day (twice if two cats must use the same box). Top up the litter so that it is sufficient for the cat’s needs.


• Once a week you could empty out the tray altogether and replace it with fresh litter after washing the box with a mild detergent and drying thoroughly. Cats love a fresh, clean litter box.


• Make sure the box is ventilated so that the litter has a chance to dry completely.


• Try not to change the brand of litter, and if you must, gradually introduce the new brand along with the old. Cat litter is available in most pet stores and in some departmental stores as well.

You will find that once your pet has learnt where his toilet is, and if it meets his needs of hygiene, privacy and constancy, he will almost never want to eliminate elsewhere.

Cat chat Understanding feline language

Body language, behaviour, and vocalisations are keys to understanding the feline mind. You and your cat might speak different languages, but you can still communicate with each other.

Indicators such as the look in your cat’s eyes, tone of her voice, position of her ears, and motion of her tail can provide important clues that reveal her feelings and intentions. You can learn to ‘read’ these signals, so you’ll get a good idea of what’s on your cat’s mind.

Vocalising: Something to talk about

You’ll learn a lot from your cat’s wide vocabulary of chirps and meows. You’ll know when it’s time to get up (at least in your cat’s opinion), when your cat’s feeling affectionate, or when your cat’s feeling threatened or in pain.

Meow is an all-purpose word. This can be a greeting (Hey, how ya doin?), a command (‘I want up, I want down, more food now’), an objection (‘Touch me at your own risk’), an announcement (‘Here’s your mouse’). Some cats even walk around the house meowing to themselves.

Chirps and trills are how a mother cat tells her kittens to follow her. Kitty wants you to follow her, usually to her food bowl. If you have more than one cat, they will often converse with each other this way.

The purr is a sign of contentment. Cats purr whenever they’re happy, even while they’re eating. Sometimes, however, a cat may purr when she’s anxious or sick, using the purr as a way to comfort himself, like a child sucking her thumb.

Growling, hissing and spitting indicate a cat who is annoyed, frightened, angry or aggressive. Leave this cat alone.

The yowl or howl is a loud, drawn-out meow. Your cat is in some kind of distress—stuck in a closet, looking for you, in pain. In un-neutered and un-spayed cats, it’s part of the mating behaviour (and very annoying). Elderly cats sometimes suffer from cognitive disorder (dementia) and may howl because they’re disoriented. Screaming means your cat is in terrible pain.

Chattering, chittering, twittering is the strange noise your cat makes when she’s sitting in the window watching birds or squirrels. Some experts think that this is an exaggeration of the ‘killing bite’ when a cat grabs her prey by the neck and works her teeth through the bones to snap them.

Body language

A cat gets her whole body into the act when she’s communicating.

Does your cat’s back arch up to meet your hand when you pet her? This means she’s enjoying this contact with you. Does she shrink away under your slightest touch? Save the petting for later: she’s not interested right now.

Pay attention to her eyes, ears, body and tail—they’re all part of the story.

Ears

• Forward: alert, interested, happy


• Backward, sideways, flat (‘airplane ears’): irritable, angry, frightened


• Swivelling: attentive, listening to every little sound

Eyes

• Pupils constricted: offensively aggressive; content


• Pupils dilated: nervous, submissive (somewhat dilated); defensively aggressive (fully dilated); playful

Tail

• Erect, fur flat: alert, inquisitive, happy


• Fur standing on end: angry, frightened


• Held very low or tucked between legs: insecure, anxious


• Thrashing back and forth: agitated. The faster the tail, the madder the cat


• Straight up, quivering: excited, really happy. If your cat is not neutered, he/she could be getting ready to spray something!

Body

• Back arched, fur standing on end: frightened, angry


• Back arched, fur flat: welcoming your touch


• Lying on back, purring: very relaxed, may be asking for a tummy rub


• Lying on back, growling, upset, ready to strike

Rubbing

When your cat rubs her chin and body against you, she’s telling you she loves you, right? Well, sort of. What she’s really doing is marking her territory. You’ll notice that she also rubs the chair, the door, her toys, everything in sight. She’s telling everyone that this is her stuff, including you. But she does love you, too.

Kneading

In the cat world, this is called ‘making biscuits,’ because the cat works her paws on a soft surface as if she’s kneading bread dough. This is a holdover from kittenhood, when a nursing kitten massaged her mother’s teats to make milk flow. When your cat does this, she is really happy.

The Flehman response

You’ve surely noticed times when your cat, while sniffing your shoe perhaps, lifts her head, opens her mouth slightly, curls back her lips, and squints her eyes. She’s not making a statement about how your shoe smells, she’s gathering more information.

Your cat’s sense of smell is so important to her that she actually has an extra olfactory organ that very few other creatures have—the Jacobson’s organ. It’s located on the roof of her mouth behind her front teeth and is connected to the nasal cavity.

When your cat gets a whiff of something really fascinating, she opens her mouth and inhales so that the scent molecules flow over the Jacobson’s organ. This intensifies the odour and provides more information about the object she’s sniffing. What she does with that information, well, we’ll never know.

In the mood

Is your cat playing, meditating, or having a bad day? Here’s how you can tell:

Content: Sitting or lying down, eyes half-closed, narrow pupils, tail mostly still, ears forward, purring. A really happy cat will often knead on a soft surface. 

Playful: Ears forward, tail up, whiskers forward, pupils somewhat dilated. Playing is hunting behaviour; your cat may stalk her prey (a toy, a housemate, you), then crouch down with her rear end slightly raised. A little wiggle of the butt, then … pounce! Kitty grabs her prey, bites it, wrestles it the floor, and kicks it with her hind feet. Her toy is now dead.

Irritated, over-stimulated: Pupils dilating, ears turning back, tail twitching or waving. The cat may growl or put her teeth on you as a warning to cease and desist. Intense play can quickly turn to over stimulation in some cats, resulting in biting and scratching.

Nervous, anxious: Ears sideways or back, pupils dilating, tail low or tucked between legs. The cat may slink through the house close to the floor, looking for somewhere to hide. He may turn her face to the wall to shut the world out.

Frightened, startled: Think Halloween cat. Ears back and flat against head, whiskers back, back arched, fur standing on end, tail erect or low. May yowl, growl, hiss, and spit.

Defensive: Crouched position, ears flattened, whiskers back, tail between legs or wrapped around body, pupils dilated. May meow loudly, growl, hiss and spit.

Angry, aggressive: Ears back, pupils very constricted, tail up or down with fur standing on end. An aggressive cat will stare down the other cat and growl or yowl until the other cat gives way. Cats don’t really want to fight; they prefer standoffs, but this can progress to fighting if one of the cats doesn’t back down.

(The article is contributed by Humane Society of the Unites States (HSUS). Established in 1954, HSUS seeks a humane and sustainable world for all animals; www.hsus.org)

The unfolding of our sweet felines

In the last issue, you read how domestic cats evolved with time. Here are the differences that set them apart from their wild counterparts.

Our cats had to adapt and change themselves in order to fully exploit their relationship with humans, and several key differences that set the domestic cat apart from his wild cousins include:

Communal living: While most cat species are solitary, domestic cats, like lions, are capable of sharing resources and forming bonds with each other. Female cats will even cooperate together to rear kittens, pooling litters into a group with the benefits of two mums to feed and protect them.

Fertility: Our pets display different breeding behaviour from their ancestors, which only have one or two breeding seasons a year; domestic cats can breed all year round and produce larger litters.

Appearance: Cats in a domestic setting no longer had a need for camouflaging coats and indeed the more unusual colours and patterns would have been more prized and tended to, giving them a better chance of passing on their genes. An increasing number of genetic mutations gave us solid colours, such as reds, torties, chocolates, colourpoints, bicolours, long coats, curly coats and a great many more.

Different on the inside: Not all of the differences are external, and domestic cats have evolved a significantly longer intestinal tract. This adaptation allows them to digest a greater range of foods and therefore take advantage of many things they come across in our kitchens. This means they find it easier to gain some energy from cereals, although it would take a few more great leaps of evolution before they would be happy tucking into a bowl of muesli!

I’ve been headshrunk!: It may be embarrassing for cats to admit, but domestication caused their brains to become smaller. It is difficult to say whether this is due to an all round downsizing, but it may be that with the safety of human protection there is less for the brain to do.

Neotony: This means that cats have retained kittenish behaviour into adulthood. This is partly because humans favoured cats who were more vocal, playful and affectionate, but also because cats extended the use of behaviours from their times living in groups as kittens to help them interact when living communally as adults. No self-respecting adult wild cat would be caught milk-treading!

Plus ça change: In spite of all these differences, domestic cats are still very close to their wild cousins and there are many things to remind us of this. Cats evolved in hot deserts and even shaggy-coated cats living for generations in cold climate still have adaptations to heat, such as ability to concentrate urine and drink comparatively little. Hunting instincts are hard-wired and an essential feline characteristic, even when they are redirected to toy mice. The preference for running water that sees many cats leaping up to the bathroom sink when their owner picks up the toothbrush harks back to a survival instinct to avoid unhealthy stagnant pools. Conveniently for us the instinct to bury faeces has not disappeared and draws our pets to the litter tray. Affectionate cheek rubbing is a behaviour wild cats use to mark territory. However, there are some wild behaviours we would rather our pets didn’t cling on to, such as territorial urine marking; some of the things we class as problem behaviour are just cats still acting out their wild sides.

Thanks to that unique symbiotic relationship with the human species the cat has evolved in a unique direction to become one of the most widespread and successful species on the entire planet. While many other cat species are endangered, domestic cats are extremely numerous and have conquered every continent even joining expeditions to the Antarctic. It reminds us of what amazing creatures we have the privilege of sharing our homes with.

(Anthony Nichols has been showing cats for about 20 years, starting with non-pedigrees, and breeding for about ten years. He has bred Devon Rex and Singapuras, but mainly focuses on breeding LaPerms in a range of colours, particularly the reds, creams, torties, chocolates and colourpoints.)

---

Did you know?

• Miacids, weasel-like, primitive, prototype carnivores, gave rise to cats, dogs, raccoons and bears.


• One common ancestor passed on a genetic anomaly to all living cats that prevents them from tasting sweetness.


• There are distinctive differences between the different branches of the feline family tree: cats from the Americas have one less chromosome, only the big cats can roar and Cheetahs’ claws are uniquely non-retractable.


• Archaeological evidence shows that 3000 years ago, a parallel domestication of cats occurred in the ancient cities of Pakistan’s Indus Valley. Centuries later, trade routes opened and the two groups of cats mixed.


• Although it is often stated that killing a cat in ancient Egypt was punishable to death, they were also bred for ritual sacrifice.


• Jungle cats (Felis Chaus) were also present in the Egyptian temples and could have interbred with other cats.


• The ‘Founder Effect’: the first individual cats to arrive in a new place passed on traits to their offspring that became more common in the new populations than they were in the original populations. For example, poldactyly or extra digits, is disproportionately common in east coast America.


• Cat colours or patterns are most common in the area of the world where the original mutation took place, for example, the highest density of colourpoints is found in Asia.

C’attitude’… an undesirable behaviour

Nobody likes a cat who attacks other cats or dogs or even you. Territoriality and fear are usually the causes and the good news is both can be controlled.

Cats don’t plan nasty behaviour. They probably don’t lie around the house waiting to punish their humans for some perceived behavioural infraction or slight. “It’s more likely they are saying, Hey, This is my house,” says Katherine A Houpt, VMD, PhD, Director of Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine’s Behaviour Clinic, NY.

Kitty behaviour…it’s all in the genes

Probably more than 50 percent of cat behaviours is genetically programmed. Cats were originally solitary hunters and territorial animals. Cats began to live together in social groups only when humans began to provide concentrated sources of food.

Early socialization…a must

Cats must be socialized early. The critical period for the socialisation of cats is 2-7 weeks of age. During that time, kittens should meet other cats, humans and dogs. Cats who are not socialised early may end up as difficult house cats.

Numbers count…

A one-cat household will have fewer socialization problems than a two-cat household. And having three cats in the house almost always leads to some trouble - aggression, spraying, or litter box infractions. When a new cat joins the household, it is not necessarily the original cat who is the aggressor; it can be the new cat. If this arrangement occurs, keep the litter boxes separated as well.

The problem can also develop with as simple an act as taking one cat to the veterinarian. Another cat doesn’t recognize him upon his return. The returning cat smells different.

Cattitude…the signs

Besides obvious behaviour, how do you know when an attitude develops? Cats stare and they walk with their hind legs extended so that their backs slope form tail to shoulder. Sometimes they make caterwauling sounds and hissing noises (although hissing can also indicate fear). In addition, a cat staring at a human in irritation may lash his tail from side and point its ears backward. A wagging tail is a happy dog but an angry cat.

Taming the kitty…

• Bell the cat: One way to discourage staring and tension between cats is to put a bell on the aggressor; the bell warns the other cat.


• Keep the two cats separate: It is important that the victim not be frightened of the other cat. One elaborate way to reintroduce cats if they become hostile is to keep the aggressor in a less desirable area of the house behind a solid door, gradually replaced by a plastic door, a screen door, or a door open just a crack. It is not always possible to do this unfortunately but as an alternative the aggressor can be put in a cage while the other cat remains free.


• Feed them together: Feed the cats their meals together, although initially with their food bowls on opposite sides of the room. Gradually, move their food dishes closer together. When the aggressor is first let out of the cage, keep him on a harness.


• Medication for both: Medication for both cats, prescribed by a veterinarian, may be useful – to reduce aggression in one cat and reduce anxiety in the other.


• Careful with a pup: Don’t introduce a puppy to an adult cat - what is play to a puppy can be torture to a cat.


• Redirected aggression: Cats go after human as well, especially after what they may consider to be a threatening experience. Owners do get attacked, but most often it is a case of redirected aggression; a cat seeing another cat out of the window may become aroused and attack his companion cat, a dog or his owner. The cat picks the handiest target and it is a good example of how tenuous cat social bonds are.


• Work out a solution: Don’t let a bad attitude continue. Cats can become enemies forever unless you do something. It is wise to talk to your veterinarian as they will often have a good solution to the problems.

Thus, cattitude can be controlled and your kitty can be the epitome of love and friendship…your friend for life!

(Joan Henderson is based in Australia and she has judged furry felines in many other countries including the USA, Bermuda, Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong, Philippines and New Zealand).

The unfolding of our sweet felines

Evolution is the process by which species develop, being slowly formed over millennia by pressures such as natural selection and genetic drift. Here’s how our felines tiptoed into our lives….

The Felidae family...

The Felidae family, to which all cats belong, has done well, branching out in all geographical directions with thirty-seven variations on a highly effective blueprint of a top predator, ranging from Sand Cats to Tigers. These all trace back to one common ancestor who lived on our planet between 20 and 30 million years ago: Proailurus. This animal was remarkably like a large domestic cat and probably spent a lot of time hunting in trees for small animals. From this humble beginning the cat’s family tree started to branch out. A legacy of huge and frightening Sabre-toothed Cats, some of whom thought nothing of snacking on a Rhino, spread across the world and dominated it for millions of years. However, these fearsome beasts were outlived by less assuming cousins and all living cat species today owe their heritage to the Cougar-like Pseudaelurus.

Sometimes in the history of an animal’s evolution a change occurs because it develops a symbiotic relationship with another species. That is to say, two unrelated animals find a way to get along and have a mutually beneficial relationship. The youngest species of cat arose in this way and is the cat we all know, love and cuddle on a cold night.

The first domestic cat…

Felis Silvestris Catus or the Domestic Cat developed around 5000 years ago when there was a social shift among the people of North Africa who for the first time ceased a nomadic existence in order to settle on fertile land and farm food. Excess grain was stored for leaner times and this attracted the destructive attention of mice. The sand brown African Wild Cat, Felis Silvestris Lybica, was and still is, present in the area hunting small prey in the steppes, savannas and bush-land. Unlike many small cat species, African Wild Cat kittens can develop a certain level of tameness if raised with people from a young enough age.

Cats in religion…

Cats became increasingly important in religion in Egypt, with the cult of cat goddess Bast elevating their status to sacred and worshipped VIPs. During this time it became common practise to keep cats confined for the first time, and they were bred and pampered in temples.

The sailors…

The Phoenicians were great sea traders sailing all around Europe in boats propelled by muscle-armed galley slaves. One of their great strengths was realising that cats were as vital to successful seafaring as cooperative oarsmen. Between 1200 and 800 BC these ships took cats all around the Mediterranean and beyond and by 500 BC, cats were well established in Southern Europe and traders were taking them on journeys to and from China and Japan where they were invaluable in protecting silkworm cocoons from rats.

Touched by luxury…

It was in Rome that the cat had its first taste of luxury as a pampered pet while the mongoose was sent out to work catching vermin. As the Roman Empire came to prominence cats hitched a ride again to even more countries, including England, where feline footprints on clay tiles date back to 4 AD, and India, where sea-faring Romans had many trade links, especially in the West coast. Then as time passed travel and exploration took ship’s cats across the Atlantic to America and down under to New Zealand and Australia with the first colonists.

Not only had Felis S Catus become a new, distinct sub-species but a highly successful one thanks to its ability to live alongside humans. Our cats had to adapt and change themselves in order to fully exploit this relationship, and several key differences set the domestic cat apart from his wild cousins.

(Anthony Nichols has been showing cats for about 20 years, starting with non-pedigrees, and breeding for about ten years. He has bred Devon Rex and Singapuras, but mainly focuses on breeding LaPerms in a range of colours, particularly the reds, creams, torties, chocolates and colourpoints.) (To be continued…Read our next issue to know how domestic cats are different from wild cats.)