Introduction old to new

Your older kitty might live peacefully with other pet companions in the house. But there is no surety about him happily accepting a new member to the family. Here’s some extra attention which your older cat will require when a new kitty comes home.

First sight…

In their first meeting, two feline buddies get to know each other by smells. So, your older cat in the house will spend a lot of time sniffing the new or young kitty member. And the kitten will do the same. But if your older cat purrs or hisses curiously and seems uncomfortable, it would be wise to wait for a few more days.

Steady adjustment…

Be sure first that your older cat is ready, then introduce him to the young kitty by widely opening the door of the room where the kitten stays as they can see and smell each other freely. You should be present to supervise their meeting. Keep the door open for short periods of time until they become adjusted to looking at each other without becoming upset. Though it takes several days, this procedure will eventually be successful.

Take it easy…

You shouldn’t force the two furry buddies get closer. Let them decide whether to stay closer or far. Repeat the short introduction as much as you can until the two cats are comfortable to stay in the same room. Take it easy, don’t push them for instant friendship!

A common space…

Your older cat will like to assure that the newcomer kitty will not take over his territory. For example, if the older one has his favourite sleeping place, don’t let the young kitten use it. Provide the young fellow separate corner and toys. Always keep in mind that animals are possessive of their food, feeding dishes and sleeping corners.

Litter pans…

Providing two separate litter pans to your young and older kitties will help prevent the adult cat from starting to soil in inappropriate areas as an act of aggression.

Forever friends…

It may take quite a few days or months for the two kitties to become close friends who are totally comfortable with each other. But usually over time, most of the kitties find a workable relationship, even if they are still not best friends!

Before home-coming

 

• Let your vet examine the kitten to make sure she's parasite-free.


• Make sure all their vaccinations are current.


• Neuter or spay to diminish aggression,especially the kitten at appropriate age.

 

 

 

Spreading the joy!

Giving away kittens is an emotional event for both pet parents, kittens and mother cat. It is necessary to make this easier and less stressful for the kittens. Here are a few tips for making it easier for all.

Purrfecting kittens before adoption

• The right age: The kittens should be at least eight weeks before they leave home. Ideally, the kittens should be with their mother for 12 weeks to learn social and behavioural skills.


• Weaned before adoption: The kittens should be properly weaned and able to eat on their own.


• House-trained: Litter-box training is a must. This makes it easier for the kittens in their new home and avoid unpleasant accidents.


• Health chart: The kittens should be dewormed and vaccinated. The new pet parents should be advised on proper kitten care.

Know the pet parents before adoption

• Screen the pet parents: While talking to prospective pet parents, it is necessary to screen them. Ask them about their previous experiences with pets, their home, family members and lifestyle. If you are comfortable, invite them to visit the kittens. If you are not comfortable, please say that you don’t think it is a proper fit and politely say ‘no’. You can also visit the home of the prospective pet parents before giving away the kitten.

Making pet parents and kitten meeting a pleasure

• Don’t stress the kittens: Place all kittens comfortably in a basket for showing it to prospective pet parents. It is stressful for the kittens if they have to be chased around a room while people are waiting to see them.

Purrfect adoption

• Two is better than one: Giving away kittens in pairs is recommended. Kittens are very playful and need company for their healthy development.


• The adoption day: Feed the kittens at least two hours before they leave home. It gives them the chance to use the litter box also. This way, the kittens can settle down more comfortably in their new home.


• Giving away: Tell the prospective pet parents what food the kittens prefer and their daily routine. Always give away the kittens in a secure animal carrier. Place your kitten’s favourite toys and treats in the carrier.


• Avoiding unwanted litters: Giving away a kitten to a good and loving home brings great joy to all concerned. Please advise the new pet parents on spaying/neutering to avoid unwanted litter.


• Responsible pet parenting: Always assure the pet parents that you will take back the kittens in case of any problem. You can always find another pet parent.

(Sudhersena is volunteer at the Blue Cross since 1998 and an avid animal lover, owns nine cats and three dogs. She is associated with a number of animal welfare campaigns and programmes.)

Introducing a New Cat to Other Pets

Wouldn’t it be nice if all it took to introduce a new cat to your resident pet were a brief handshake and a couple of “HELLO, My Name is...” nametags? But, since we’re dealing with cats, not people, it’s just not that simple, so you’ll need to have some realistic expectations.

Realistic expectations

First, it’s recognising and accepting that you can’t force your pets to like each other. We don’t have a crystal ball to predict whether or not your pets will be friends, but we do have techniques for you to use to increase your chances of success. Most importantly, choose a cat with a similar personality and activity level. For example, an older cat or dog might not appreciate the antics of a kitten.

You need to move slowly during the introduction process to increase your chances for success. You mustn’t throw your pets together in a sink-or-swim situation and hope they’ll work it out.

The nature of cats

Cats are territorial, and in general they don’t like to share. A cat who’s unhappy about a newcomer may express her displeasure by fighting with the other pet and marking territory (peeing on the floor, wall, objects).

Cats also dislike change, and a new cat in the house is a huge change. These two character traits mean you could have a tough (but not impassable) road ahead.

Being social

Some cats are more social than other cats. For example, an eight-year-old cat who has never been around other animals might never learn to share her territory (and her people) with other pets in the household. But an eight-week-old kitten separated from her mom and littermates for the first time might be glad to have a cat or dog companion.

All of this means that your current pet and your new cat need to be introduced very slowly so they can get used to each other before a face-to-face meeting. Slow introductions help prevent fearful or aggressive behaviour from developing. Below are some guidelines to help make the introductions go smoothly.

Be aware that the introduction process can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks, or even a few months in extreme cases. Be patient.

Confinement

To allow time for the newcomer to adjust to you and her new situation, keep her in a small room with her litter box, food, water, scratching post, toys and a bed for several days to a week.

• Feed your resident pets and the newcomer on each side of the door to this room, so that they associate something enjoyable (eating!) with each other’s smells. Don’t put the food so close to the door that the animals are too upset by each other’s presence to eat.


• Gradually move the dishes closer to the door until your pets can eat calmly while standing directly on either side of the door.


• Try to get your pets to interact with a toy. Tie a toy to each end of a string, then place it so there’s a toy on either side of the door. Hopefully, they’ll start batting the toys around and maybe even batting paws.


• Be sure to spend plenty of time with your new kitty in her room, but don’t ignore your resident cat.

The old switcheroo

To animals, smells are far more important than appearances, so you want to get your pets used to each other’s scent before they meet face-to-face.

• Swap the blankets or beds the cats use or gently rub a washcloth on one cat’s cheeks and put it underneath the food dish of another. If there are more than two animals in the house, do the same for each animal.


• When the pets finally do meet, at least their scents will be familiar.


• Once your new cat is using her litter box and eating regularly while confined, let her have free time in the house while confining your other pets to the new cat’s room. It’s best to introduce your new cat to a room or two at a time and increase her access to other rooms over a few days. This switch provides another way for them to experience each other’s scents without a face-to-face meeting. It also allows the newcomer to get familiar with her new surroundings without the other animals frightening her.


• You can do this several times a day, but only when you’re home to supervise. If you have to leave the house, put your new kitty back in her room.


• Next, after you’ve returned the cats to their designated parts of the house, use two doorstops to prop open the dividing door just enough to allow the animals to see each other.


• Repeat the whole process over a period of days—supervised, of course.

Slow and steady win the race

It’s better to introduce your pets to each other gradually so that neither animal becomes afraid or aggressive. Once the cats are face to face, though, there will be some kinks for them to work out.

If you’re really lucky (and your cats are inclined), they may do some mutual sniffing and grooming, and you’re on your way to success. They may sit and stare at each other. You can provide distraction by dangling toys in front of them at the same time. This may encourage them to play together.

They might sniff each other, hiss, and walk away. That’s to be expected. This may go on for a few days or so, and then you’ll probably find them both sleeping on your bed.

Break it up

If you’re not so lucky, they may be very stressed. Fortunately, they may only posture and make a lot of noise. But, as soon as there are signs of increasing aggression (flattened ears, growling, spitting, crouching), make a loud noise by clapping your hands or throw a pillow nearby to distract them. If the standoff continues, very carefully herd them into separate parts of the house to calm down. This could take up to 24 hours and the cats may take out their stress on you.

Be careful

If the cats fight repeatedly, you may need to start the introduction process all over again and consider getting advice from a vet or animal behaviourist.

Note: Never try to break up a cat fight by picking one up; you’re bound to get hurt.

Reducing tension

There are other things you can do to help ease tension between feline roommates.

• Have your cats examined by your vet before introductions to make sure they’re all healthy.


• Have one litter box per cat plus an extra one.


• Try to keep your resident pets’ routine as close to what it was before the newcomer’s arrival.


• Make sure all cats have a ‘safe’ place to escape to.

(This article is contributed by Humane Society of the United States (HSUS). Established in 1954, HSUS seeks a humane and sustainable world for all animals; www.hsus.org)

Choosing the Right cat for you

There are lots of important things to think through before picking your new pal. The first step to starting a long and last friendship with a cat is, of course, choosing the cat—or, more to the point, choosing the cat that’s right for you.

By definition, this is the biggest decision you’ll make regarding your cat. And it’s an important decision, because a cat—unlike an item of clothing, a video-game console, or a must-have electronic gadget—is a living, breathing being who will need your care and attention for the next 10, 15, or even 20 years.

Decisions, decisions

There are so many cats out there, and so many kinds of cats to choose from, it can be hard to know where to begin. Some questions to ask yourself are:

• Kitten or adult?


• Long-haired or short?


• Lazy lap cat or unguided missile?


• Quiet or talkative?


• Independent cat or velcro kitty?


• Purebred or mixed?

The answers to some of these questions may lie in your own lifestyle. Are you a couch potato who wants a cat to nap along with you? Do you hang on every fascinating word a kitty says? Is kitten-watching more fun than TV?

Kitten or cat?

Kittens are adorable, curious, playful, and full of energy. They can also be exasperating at times, demanding lots of supervision to keep them out of trouble and patience when they get into it. And a kitten is an unknown entity—you really don’t know what kind of cat you’ll end up with once she outgrows her kitten personality.

Adult cats are usually calmer, less bouncy, and less mischievous. With an adult, what you see is usually what you get, so if you are looking for specific qualities, consider cats that are a year and older.

Family matters

When choosing a cat, keep your family in mind. Kittens and very young children usually don’t mix well, as kittens can be fragile and youngsters kind of rough. Babies and toddlers tend to grab the closest part of a cat, be it tail, ear, or fur, and they can’t resist giving the cat a great big hug. Always supervise any interaction between your youngster and your cat.

Personality

Cats, like people, are individuals. No two are exactly alike, whether they’re from the same breed or even the same litter.

Some cats are very mellow and will tolerate any kind of handling, including being dressed in clothes. These cats are perfect for young kids or older people who want and appreciate this type of cat.

Other cats don’t like being picked up or held and will only come to you for petting when they feel like it. There are cats who live to nap and cats who are perpetual motion machines.

Personality can vary widely by breed, too. If you decide you want a purebred, do your homework so you end up with one that’s right for you. Persians, for example, are typically laid-back and sedentary, while Bengals and other “exotic” breeds (created with wild cat genes) tend to be extremely active. Siamese have the reputation of being very talkative.

Short fur or long?

This is mainly a matter of preference and your willingness to devote time to regular grooming. Long-haired cats require frequent grooming sessions to prevent matting. Not all cats enjoy being brushed, though, and you could wind up having to take your long-hair to a groomer to be shaved down.

Short-haired cats don’t require as much brushing, but it helps to remove loose fur, stimulate the skin, and distribute oils through the coat. A cat who likes being groomed will come running when she sees the brush.

Purebred or mixed breed?

There are far fewer cat breeds than dog breeds. Most dog breeds evolved from the type of work they were meant to do. Cat breeds were developed mostly for companionship. So there are fewer personality differences between cat breeds.

If you have your heart set on a specific breed, make sure you research that breed thoroughly as well as the breeder (if you choose to buy a purebred). Some breeds are prone to certain medical problems, and there are breeders that are not that careful about their breeding programmes.

In general, mixed breed cats tend to be healthier, since their gene pools are much more diverse.

Special-needs cats

Many cats with special needs make wonderful companions. They might be older, deaf, blind, or have an illness that requires regular medication. Their condition doesn’t affect the amount of love and pleasure they have to give; it just means extra commitment on your part to meet their needs for the rest of their lives.

Room for one more?

If you already have pets, you have to consider them as well before bringing home a cat.

The good news is that cats can get along with other cats and—despite the common stereotype—most dogs can get along with cats. But it’s not necessarily easy to get them used to one another, and sometimes it can be impossible.

Some cats may be perfectly happy as an only cat and could really resent a newcomer. The more cats you have, the more potential problems you invite; the cats can become stressed and develop undesirable behaviours, such as spraying urine, fighting or hiding.

Dogs and cats can become best friends, but some dogs with a high prey drive may not be able to resist chasing, terrorising, or even killing the new cat.

Birds and cats have been known to co-exist peacefully, but remember that felines are hunters by instinct. A cat may traumatise your bird by trying to get at him through the bars of the cage.

Be responsible

Once you’ve made a carefully thought-out decision, be an ideal pet parent by providing your cat with everything she needs to live a happy and healthy life.

(This article is contributed by Humane Society of the Unites States (HSUS). Established in 1954, HSUS seeks a humane and sustainable world for all animals; www.hsus.org)

Welcome to our abode!

If you are planning to bring home an adorable kitty, then it’s your responsibility to make transition easy for your loving feline. Here’s more on how to make the physical environment conducive for this little angel.

Kittens in a new home deserve time to get used to their new situation, gain confidence and start bonding to their new family without getting too overstimulated. Here are a few tips to make it easier for them to adjust to the new surroundings:

1. Confinement: Decide the place where you wish to keep her and limit her to one room for the first week at least for a kitten and longer for an older cat or two kittens.


2. Spending time: When they are in the confined area, spend lots of time with them. Just being there only makes quick bonding to the new family. Your kitten should be confident of you and not duck away from you by the time you give her the run of the house.


3. Litter box training: It is also the best time to get the kitten convinced that she likes her litter box. Bring the kitten in a carrier and open the carrier next to the litter box.


4. Giving her own time: Let the kitten choose its own time to venture forth and leave the carrier available with open door as a refuge. If she does so immediately, make the effort to scratch her feet in her litter box, so that she locates it promptly.


5. Water bowl: Provide water on the other side of the carrier or away from the litter box.


6. Changing the place of litterbox: Move the litter box only a few feet at a time, rather than a room at a time.


7. Sleeping together: Let the kitten sleep with you if you have a single kitten. But, do not forget to wear heavy pyjamas as they have sharp little claws.

How to bring up a kitten

Bringing up a healthy and happy kitty is an art. In the last issue, we discussed about good mom care, early socialisation, litter training and weaning. Here are some other ways, which can support growing kittens to ensure that the development process goes well.

Regular veterinary check-ups

The body of a small kitten is very vulnerable and her immune system is not as well developed as that of an adult one. This means that any bugs she picks up can be very serious, so breeders and owners should never delay seeking veterinary treatment for any potential infection. Diarrhoea, sore or gunky eyes, sneezes or sniffles should all be investigated.

A kitten exploring a dusty corner under a bed or behind furniture may give a little sneeze without cause for concern, but any discharge should be seen by a vet as soon as possible. Bad colds in growing kittens can cause permanent damage to the inside of the nose and long-term respiratory problems. Give them plenty of reassurance and take along some of their favourite treats while visiting the vet.

Making travelling easy

Some cats are also wary of travelling, so any journeys that kittens can be taken on while they are still young and open to new experiences will help to ensure that they feel comfortable on trips to see family, to cat shows, or to the vet. If kittens are going to be shown then they should get the experience of going to shows while they are young. It is a mistake to wait until they are old enough to be entered into adult classes, as cats shown as kittens tend to have a more confident attitude at shows. Kittens who appear a little more nervous can be taken to shows to be put on exhibition only for their first experience, then they will have had an opportunity to adjust to the sounds and smells of a cat show before they go back and are handled by judges. Most kittens love all the cuddles and attention they receive.

Making grooming fun

It is important for cats to be habituated to grooming from an early age, especially longhaired cats who will need more intensive grooming as adults. They should get used to being brushed all over, including the tummy and back of legs, having their ears cleaned and nails trimmed. If kittens are not brought up with this exposure they will often resent being groomed as adults and those with thick coats may end up with painful mats. Create positive associations with grooming for kittens by keeping session short and finishing with a food treat or play session.

Good behaviour training

Destructive behaviour can be a problem, especially with younger cats who have more energy and get bored more easily. It is a good idea to prevent boredom by providing playmates, toys and interactive playtime. However, a certain amount of training can help to bring up kittens with good habits. The earlier in life a kitten learns good house rules the more effectively they will take these on.

Kittens should be strongly discouraged from scratching furniture and encouraged to use a scratching post. If this is done they will associate the post with a need to scratch and seek it out. Other ground rules should be set out from the start and stuck to unswervingly. Kittens will just be confused if they do not get a consistent message about whether they are allowed on the kitchen worktops or in the bedroom.

Outdoor vs indoor

Another firm decision is required about whether the kitten is allowed outdoor access or not. There is no need to give cats outdoor access as all their needs can be catered to indoors. Once given outdoor access cats may not appreciate having it taken away. If a decision is made to provide outdoor access then ways of making this secure should be considered, such as use of leads, runs or cat-proof fencing. Cats should only be allowed out during daylight hours and will require microchipping first. A collar with an ID tag and vaccination against FeLV should also be considered. Owners can also ask their vets if their local area has a high incidence of FIV or airgun attacks.

Anyone with young kittens needs to give special attention to the way in which they bring them up. With the right care and attention they can be well socialised to make them friendly and outgoing, they can be given a healthy start and they can learn to happily enjoy the varied elements of life with a human family. A well brought up kitten should grow into a happy, loving and balanced adult cat.

(Anthony Nichols has been showing cats for about 20 years, starting with non-pedigrees, and breeding for about ten years. He has bred Devon Rex and Singapuras, but mainly focuses on breeding LaPerms in a range of colours, particularly the reds, creams, torties, chocolates and colourpoints.)

How to bring up a Kitten

We all want our kittens to be healthy and well adjusted. And the best start in life will enable them to bond well with humans and enjoy a robust constitution. Here are ways, which can support growing kittens to ensure that the development process goes well.

Good mom care…

Nutrition: Even before a kitten is born, the breeder needs to ensure that the mother is well fed and no under stress.

Warm and cosy: From the moment a litter arrives, good beginnings will set a kitten’s development off on the right track. A secure, cosy and comfortable nest is a must as without this it will be harder for the mother to settle with her kittens and keep them warm and safe.

Early socialisation…a must

As the kittens grow, they go through a vitally important phase called the Socialisation Window. This is the period in a kitten’s life between two and eight weeks of age during which she imprints on and forms social bonds with humans and other cats. The socialisation that takes place during this time will decide how the cat reacts to humans for the rest of her life.

If human contact doesn’t take place during this period, the cat will never be able to become fully tame. Anyone raising a litter of kittens has the responsibility to socialise the kittens well in preparation for their lives as well-loved household pets.

Socialisation with household appliances: One of the best known of these is getting small kittens used to the sound of vacuum cleaners so that they don’t panic when they hear it in later life. The same can be done with other noisy household appliances, such as hair dryers, loud stereos and the general noise of a busy household. Kittens raised wrapped in cotton wool will be nervous and jumpy when they are shifted to a normal family home with its sounds and activity. Growing kittens should not be shut away in a kitten room all day but allowed to experience the hurly-burly activities of a normal household.

Socialisation by touch: However, the most important element of socialisation is lots of handling so that kittens are not only comfortable but also happy to be picked up and held, and will settle contentedly on a warm lap. Kittens should be handled thoroughly, not just held and cuddled, but also given the chance to get used to paws and mouths being felt and looked at. Some kittens may bite and scratch while they are being socialised, particularly during play and the breeder must discourage them from doing this with an appropriate response. A mother cat would hiss and gently push a kitten away so kittens understand what this means, even when it is done by humans.

Socialisation with people: It is good for young kittens to experience a range of different types of people, including adults and children, men and women, young and old. This helps to avoid them being too attached to just one type of person at the expense of others.

Socialisation with other pets: Introductions to other pets at an early age will help to ensure that they get on as adults. Introducing kittens to other cats is normally fairly straightforward, but more care may be needed with dogs. Plan introductions carefully, keep them short initially and make them positive with food and toys and plenty of reassurance.

Litter training…

It is vitally important to ensure that kittens start out with good litter tray habits. Litter training starts at the same time as weaning and provided that a litter tray is placed close enough for kittens to reach. They should follow the example of their mother and their own natural instinct to use it.

Use plenty of litter trays: When a small kitten feels the urge, she cannot hold on for long and might not remember where the tray is. So it is a good idea to provide plenty of trays and limit the area where the kittens are until they have got the habit of using them.

Use non-clumping litter: Some kittens try to eat litter, so training should always be done with non-clumping varieties which will not cause a blockage if swallowed.

Cleanliness is important: Kittens avoid smelly trays, so they should be changed often to make them as user-friendly as possible.

Taking care of accidents: Some accidents may happen while they are learning and these should be cleaned up as quickly and thoroughly as possible. Some kittens appear to have an instinct to toilet in corners or behind doors and they can be prevented from becoming attached to these places by putting down tin foil or a small bowl of dry food. Many breeders keep a vigilant eye open for a kitten getting into the ‘crouch’ position in an inappropriate place and quickly place them into a tray. Occasionally a kitten will start peeing in the bathroom and this has a simple solution: keeping two-inch depth of water in the bathroom for a few days soon puts them off.

Making weaning easy

Weaning is when kittens start to eat solid food, and this starts to happen from around three to fi ve weeks of age.

Making it easy: Breeders use various techniques to get kittens started. Once a little food is put in the corner of a kitten’s mouth they usually realise what to do and make attempts to lick and swallow. It takes a little while for them to master the technique but in a couple of weeks they are eating happily from a plate. Weaning should be done with good quality food and strict hygiene.

Giving variety of food: Once the kittens began eating they should be exposed to a variety of foods so that they do not grow up to be fussy. Rotating different brands will ensure that they don’t get overly attached to just one food. Kittens should be encouraged to eat dry food so that a bowl can be left available for them to nibble on at all times. Other food should be fed frequently at fi rst and less often as the kittens get bigger.

(Read more about veterinary check-ups, travelling, grooming and training in our next issue.)

(Anthony Nichols has been showing cats for about 20 years, starting with non-pedigrees, and breeding for about ten years. He has bred Devon Rex and Singapuras, but mainly focuses on breeding LaPerms in a range of colours, particularly the reds, creams, torties, chocolates and colourpoints.)

Lets know our kitten better..

The population of cat lovers in India is increasing and people are welcoming the felines both in their hearts and homes. Here are a few kitten basics one should know to enjoy their companionship to the maximum:

• Bring the kitten home after she has been weaned from her mother.


• The socialization period of cat begins at about two weeks of age and ends at about eight weeks.


• Socialization can be achieved with about 30 to 60 minutes of human interaction per day when your kitty is two to eight weeks old.


• For most kittens, the optimum type of interaction is being stroked and talked to simultaneously, but this can vary depending on the personality of the kitten.


• It is essential that the kitten should interact with several people, since kittens, who are handled by one person only during the socialization period, tend to be fearful of unfamiliar people.


• It is also preferable that a range of people should be encountered, children as well as adults of both sexes, to build up a general image of the characteristics of the human race.


• Kittens who have received no human contact up to eight weeks old are difficult to handle. Socialize them right away but it will take more time and effort to achieve the same degree of friendliness.


• Kittens grown up with mothers who are reared at home are much easier to manage since their upbringing in kittenhood is smooth as compared to stray/orphan kittens, whose lives are affected with fight for survival.


• Stray/orphan kittens are scared of human touch and may snarl or claw when touched. They may take time to gain confidence.


• Kittens also learn by imitating their mother’s behaviour.

(Dr. Hatekar is a practicing veterinary surgeon in Pune. He has been trained in Germany and France for small animal orthopaedic surgery. He is a member of World Small Animal Veterinary Association and can be contacted at: 020-25463352, 09823288110, email: petaid1@yahoo.com)