Just say ‘no’ aversive training your cat

As much as you love him, it can be hard to maintain warm, fuzzy feelings when your cat scratches the furniture, jumps on the counters, or gnaws on plants. Of course, he’s just doing what comes naturally. Yelling or hitting won’t deter the bad behaviour, but it will make your cat fearful of you, which is certainly not your goal. So what can you do?

Remote control

Aversive training uses textures, odours, tastes, sounds, and other methods to correct your cat’s behaviour in a way that’s unpleasant for him, but has nothing to do with you. Let’s say your cat tends to chew on electrical cords, a very dangerous habit. Smear hot sauce on the cords. He’ll quickly learn that chewing on them is no fun at all, and you’re still the good guy. In addition to deterring him from undesired behaviour, you’ll need to provide an acceptable alternative for him to express his needs. Tools of the trade A basic aversive training toolbox contains: Unpleasant textures: Nubby plastic carpet runner, duct tape, rough rocks, anything that won’t feel good to your cat’s paws. Bad tastes: Hot sauce or a non-toxic spray or ointment available at pet supply stores Bad smells: Cologne and citrus scents. Loud sounds: Whistle, can of pennies or pebbles, pot lids, book dropped on floor, hand clapping. Surprises: A squirt from a water bottle, a blast of canned air.

Using your tools

The advantages of having so many training tools are flexibility and creativity. You can pick, choose, and adapt your tools to any situation. If duct tape doesn’t work, try carpet runner. If your cat likes Bitter Apple, use hot sauce. If he ignores a squirt of water, blow a whistle. You can even combine your tools to send a really strong message.

Element of surprise

Aversives such as noises and surprises are effective training tools when you’re home to watch your cat’s movements. If you catch him considering whether or not to jump on the coffee table, kitchen counter, etc, don’t shout at him; instead, interrupt him by squirting him with water, blowing a whistle, or throwing a pillow in his direction (don’t hit him). These actions are intended to startle and distract him from his intended mission. Try to take action from outside his line of sight so he won’t associate it with you. He’ll think the coffee table did it. You can also use noises and surprises if your cat starts scratching or chewing something, tries to run out the front door, or engages in any other type of naughtiness. (Note: Don’t use surprise methods if you have a particularly timid or fearful cat. It’s not good for his nerves.)

Timing is everything

The right timing is crucial to the success of these methods. You have to catch your cat in the act in order for them to be effective. If you squirt him or blow the whistle after he’s finished, he won’t connect the consequence with his behaviour, and your effort will be wasted. But you can’t follow your cat around the house or be home 24x7 to supervise; that’s when your other tools come in handy.

Passive aversive

Passive aversives are training methods that don’t require you to be directly involved—a disagreeable odour, a bad taste, or an uncomfortable texture can make your cat think twice about doing what he’s doing. Here are some of the most common cat habits and ways to reduce or stop them:

Scratching carpet or furniture

• Cover favoured areas with plastic carpet runner, nubby side up, until the cat stops scratching.


• Spray areas with cologne or citrus scents, which cats don’t like and usually avoid. Test surfaces for staining by spraying on a hidden area first.

Jumping on tables, counters, etc.

• Cover with plastic carpet runner, nubby side up.


• Cover large pieces of cardboard with double-sided tape or loops of duct tape, then place cardboard on surfaces. Your cat won’t like his feet sticking to the tape.


• Set a few upside-down mousetraps that will snap when he touches them, but won’t hurt him.


• Tie some soda cans together and set them up on the surface. He’ll knock them over when he jumps up.

Chewing plants, cords, wood, etc.

• Spray plants with Bitter Apple, cologne or citrus scents


• Apply hot sauce, Bitter Apple ointment, or aloe gel to cords, wood, other solid surfaces

Digging in plants

• Cover soil with aluminium foil or small, rough rocks

Feline fun

Your cat’s habits may be incompatible with your lifestyle, but they’re perfectly normal for him. Give him approved outlets for his natural behaviour so he’ll be less tempted to use your stuff. Place scratching posts near his favourite hang-outs so he won’t go for the couch or carpet. Give him a tall cat tree to satisfy his instinct to watch the world from on high. Make sure he has toys of all shapes and materials to keep him from destroying your belongings. And shower him with time and attention as often as time allows.

(This article is contributed by Humane Society of the United States (HSUS). Established in 1954, HSUS seeks a humane and sustainable world for all animals; www.hsus.org)

one year old cat prefers wet food..

Dr KG Umesh (MVSc, MSc (UK)) is a Postgraduate in Clinical Medicine. He is working for WALTHAM as Regional Associate for South Asia.

Q: My one year old cat prefers wet food and is not eating her dry cat food. Is it ok to feed her wet food only? We are mixing the wet food with rice and feeding her twice a day. Also can I feed her fish, chicken or mutton?
-Thelma, Kottayam

Dr KG Umesh: A typical wet food contains 70-120 Kcal per 100g, whereas a dry food contains around 350-400 kcal per 100g. Both wet and dry cat food from reputed manufacturers like Whiskas are complete and balanced food, the difference being water content. Therefore cat will drink more water while eating less dry food compared to wet food. Feeding only wet food also benefits urinary tract health in cats. Feeding one format may encourage the cat to eat the other, i.e. if cat doesn’t like dry food, you can add wet to encourage the cat to eat the dry food. A nutritionally balanced diet is crucial for the healthy growth and development of a cat in order to prepare him for an active, long, and healthy life. Cats cannot thrive on the same basic nutrients as human beings due to their different physiology and the nutrients are needed in proportionately larger quantities. Prepared pet foods from reputable pet food manufacturers come with a guarantee of nutritional adequacy, quality and safety. Our research indicated that most homemade diets/foods fed to cats in our country are inadequate. Therefore do not feed any supplements or home diet while he is feeding on commercial cat food from reputed manufacturer.

Choosing the Right cat for you

There are lots of important things to think through before picking your new pal. The first step to starting a long and last friendship with a cat is, of course, choosing the cat—or, more to the point, choosing the cat that’s right for you.

By definition, this is the biggest decision you’ll make regarding your cat. And it’s an important decision, because a cat—unlike an item of clothing, a video-game console, or a must-have electronic gadget—is a living, breathing being who will need your care and attention for the next 10, 15, or even 20 years.

Decisions, decisions

There are so many cats out there, and so many kinds of cats to choose from, it can be hard to know where to begin. Some questions to ask yourself are:

• Kitten or adult?


• Long-haired or short?


• Lazy lap cat or unguided missile?


• Quiet or talkative?


• Independent cat or velcro kitty?


• Purebred or mixed?

The answers to some of these questions may lie in your own lifestyle. Are you a couch potato who wants a cat to nap along with you? Do you hang on every fascinating word a kitty says? Is kitten-watching more fun than TV?

Kitten or cat?

Kittens are adorable, curious, playful, and full of energy. They can also be exasperating at times, demanding lots of supervision to keep them out of trouble and patience when they get into it. And a kitten is an unknown entity—you really don’t know what kind of cat you’ll end up with once she outgrows her kitten personality.

Adult cats are usually calmer, less bouncy, and less mischievous. With an adult, what you see is usually what you get, so if you are looking for specific qualities, consider cats that are a year and older.

Family matters

When choosing a cat, keep your family in mind. Kittens and very young children usually don’t mix well, as kittens can be fragile and youngsters kind of rough. Babies and toddlers tend to grab the closest part of a cat, be it tail, ear, or fur, and they can’t resist giving the cat a great big hug. Always supervise any interaction between your youngster and your cat.

Personality

Cats, like people, are individuals. No two are exactly alike, whether they’re from the same breed or even the same litter.

Some cats are very mellow and will tolerate any kind of handling, including being dressed in clothes. These cats are perfect for young kids or older people who want and appreciate this type of cat.

Other cats don’t like being picked up or held and will only come to you for petting when they feel like it. There are cats who live to nap and cats who are perpetual motion machines.

Personality can vary widely by breed, too. If you decide you want a purebred, do your homework so you end up with one that’s right for you. Persians, for example, are typically laid-back and sedentary, while Bengals and other “exotic” breeds (created with wild cat genes) tend to be extremely active. Siamese have the reputation of being very talkative.

Short fur or long?

This is mainly a matter of preference and your willingness to devote time to regular grooming. Long-haired cats require frequent grooming sessions to prevent matting. Not all cats enjoy being brushed, though, and you could wind up having to take your long-hair to a groomer to be shaved down.

Short-haired cats don’t require as much brushing, but it helps to remove loose fur, stimulate the skin, and distribute oils through the coat. A cat who likes being groomed will come running when she sees the brush.

Purebred or mixed breed?

There are far fewer cat breeds than dog breeds. Most dog breeds evolved from the type of work they were meant to do. Cat breeds were developed mostly for companionship. So there are fewer personality differences between cat breeds.

If you have your heart set on a specific breed, make sure you research that breed thoroughly as well as the breeder (if you choose to buy a purebred). Some breeds are prone to certain medical problems, and there are breeders that are not that careful about their breeding programmes.

In general, mixed breed cats tend to be healthier, since their gene pools are much more diverse.

Special-needs cats

Many cats with special needs make wonderful companions. They might be older, deaf, blind, or have an illness that requires regular medication. Their condition doesn’t affect the amount of love and pleasure they have to give; it just means extra commitment on your part to meet their needs for the rest of their lives.

Room for one more?

If you already have pets, you have to consider them as well before bringing home a cat.

The good news is that cats can get along with other cats and—despite the common stereotype—most dogs can get along with cats. But it’s not necessarily easy to get them used to one another, and sometimes it can be impossible.

Some cats may be perfectly happy as an only cat and could really resent a newcomer. The more cats you have, the more potential problems you invite; the cats can become stressed and develop undesirable behaviours, such as spraying urine, fighting or hiding.

Dogs and cats can become best friends, but some dogs with a high prey drive may not be able to resist chasing, terrorising, or even killing the new cat.

Birds and cats have been known to co-exist peacefully, but remember that felines are hunters by instinct. A cat may traumatise your bird by trying to get at him through the bars of the cage.

Be responsible

Once you’ve made a carefully thought-out decision, be an ideal pet parent by providing your cat with everything she needs to live a happy and healthy life.

(This article is contributed by Humane Society of the Unites States (HSUS). Established in 1954, HSUS seeks a humane and sustainable world for all animals; www.hsus.org)

Good idea to keep a cat and a dog together?

‘They fight like cats and dogs’ – the age old expression always had us believe that no two animals could be fiercer enemies of one another. But what if you are smitten by both a dog and a cat and just can’t stay away from both?

A happy story…

Kirti Tarang, a professional with Childline India from Mumbai, had no choice. “For me it wasn’t a deliberate step. I had a Labrador at my place and then one day, I found that a cat has given birth to three kittens in my store-room and had died in the process. Those kittens were so small and vulnerable. I had no other option but to keep them with me,” she says. But, how in the world did she manage to keep her dog, Jenny and cat, Milu from clawing at each other’s faces? “I had no intentions of introducing them to each other. The kittens were two weeks old. I was feeding them with a bottle. I didn’t even realize when Jenny came and sat there. It just happened naturally,” says Kirti. “Queen Milu (the sole survivor of the three) hits Jenny a lot whenever she gets a chance and Jenny eats Milu’s Whiskers whenever she gets a chance. But Jenny always protects her from stray dogs and cats,” she adds.

What an animal activist says…

Poorva Joshipura, an animal activist from PETA, says that if dogs and cats are brought together at a young age, they can often live as companions. However, because of their inherently different natures, owners need to take utmost care during introductions, even at a young age. “Introductions could be dangerous if the dog perceives the cat as prey and so interactions must be managed with planning, care, patience and supervision,” she says.

If you are a cat owner planning to bring in a dog, Poorva suggests consulting an expert from shelters or rescue groups to get a dog who’s known to be tolerant to cats. And if you are a dog owner planning to introduce a cat, make sure your dog is on a leash, or obedient and trained to listen to you. “The introductions should be slow, with the cat being permitted to first get used to the smell of the dog from another room and then the dog brought in after a few days on a leash into the cat’s room. Do not permit the dog to chase and frighten the cat, even in play.

“Reward good behaviour of both animals with treats. After this, keep the dog on a leash for some weeks in the cat’s presence and always make sure the cat has a way to escape from the dog, such as by putting a baby gate across the door to a safe area. Build up the time the animals spend together and continue to make introductions rewarding, with more treats and praise,” she advises.

What a vet says…

Dr SK Chaudhary, a veterinary doctor from Delhi, says that a lot of people nowadays are keeping dogs and cats together as pets and it’s nothing unusual. He agrees that it’s easier for the owner when both are young and introduced into the family, but it’s not like they will lunge at each other’s throats otherwise.

Are there any special health procedures that you need to keep in mind? “No, there aren’t any special procedures. They are the same that you would otherwise have your pets undergo – standard regular check-ups, vaccinations etc,” he says.

Being a vet, he would have had ample experience with dogs to know which breeds are more suitable to keep along with a cat, so I asked him the question. “Any breed is ok, as long as he’s friendly and a good companion. Obviously, Labradors and Retrievers are more friendly, but even if you get a Doberman at a young age, he shouldn’t be a problem for the cat,” he replies.

A practical way…

Danika Dalal from Mumbai, who has (wait for it) eight cats and four dogs (!), agrees. She is an ardent pet lover who has had pets at home even before she was born. “When I got my kittens, I kept them in a separate room with the other cats because I had dogs who had already grown up. They are not at all aggressive, but they think the kitten is a soft toy and want to play with it. Of course, that can’t be fun for the kitten, which might get a heavy paw on her little head. So yes, you do have to keep them separate for a while, and when they are together, be on a watch,” she says.

Of course, you can’t avoid a fight forever. “Yes, there are fights sometimes, especially when my feisty tomcat, Mikey decides to pick a fight with the dogs.” But Danika has a simple yet ingenious method of breaking the fight, because obviously interfering in the brawl is a bad idea, unless you are ready to get scratched or bitten. “I just throw a big mug filled with water at Mikey, and because cats don’t like water, he takes off the next second!” she says, laughing. What a marvellous way of cooling off tempers.

So, there you have it. Cats and dogs are not sworn enemies after all! A little bit of attention, and a lot of love and care is all you need. So, if you love both dogs and cats, get yourself a dynamic duo today!

Training your cat

You catch more flies with honey than with vinegar. That’s the theory behind positive reinforcement. Don’t punish your cat for unwanted behaviour; instead, reward her for doing something you like. With encouragement and plenty of treats, you and your cat can accomplish great things.

Do this, not that

If you want your cat to repeat a behaviour, reward that behaviour. People frequently reward a behaviour that they don’t really want to encourage. For example, when your cat talks to you, do you talk to her, do you pet her, do you give her a treat? You’re teaching your cat that meowing brings rewards. If you don’t reward her meowing, in other words, you ignore her when she meows, she’s unlikely to become a meower. If you really like a quiet cat, reward her when she’s not meowing.

Crime and punishment

You may be sorely tempted to yell at your cat if you catch her sitting next to a broken vase or clawing the furniture, but punishing your cat after the fact is ineffective. She won’t connect the punishment with something she’s already done and forgotten about. Instead, she’ll think you’re yelling at her for whatever she’s doing at that very moment, which might be welcoming you home from work.

Yelling, hitting, and shaking will only make your cat fearful and confused and could lead to her avoiding you altogether.

Motivation

Motivation is the key to training. Money and love are great motivators for people. Toys, walks, car rides, and praise can do it for dogs. For most cats, it’s food. They care less about “good kitty” than about good kitty treats.

So, to motivate your cat, you’re going to reward her with a treat every time she uses the scratching post, lets you brush her, or brings you a beer from the fridge. Scratch her head and tell her she’s a pretty girl at the same time, but make sure you give her that treat.

Smart cats will soon link that behaviour with getting treats.

Simmer down

Providing a reward can be helpful in training your cat to be calm during procedures she may not otherwise like, such as nail trims, brushing, going into the carrier, or being picked up. But for some cats, discomfort outweighs eating, so it may not work in all cases.

Timing

Timing is everything in training your cat. Cats have short attention spans, so the reward must come immediately (within seconds) of the behaviour or your cat may not know what it’s for.

For example, if you see her use the scratching post, throw some treats her way while she’s scratching and tell her she’s a good cat, but don’t throw the treats if she has stopped scratching and is starting to something else of it’s that “something else” that she’ll think merits the reward.

Consistency

This is an important part of training. Use same techniques each time for each behaviour, and make sure everyone in the family does the same.

Oh, behave!

You can also reward your cat for a behaviour she does naturally, or you can introduce a new behaviour and reward her for learning it.

• Natural behaviour. An example of rewarding natural behaviour is giving treats for using the scratching post (see above) or standing on her hind legs.


• New behaviour. Use rewards to teach your cat a new routine—to come when you call, for example. Call her name and reward her when she responds. Move to another spot, call her name, and reward her when she responds, and so on.

When to train

The best time to train is right before meal time when your cat is most motivated by food. Only train for short periods at a time (15 minutes max) or your cat may lose interest. As soon as she stops responding, stop training.

Weaning off treats

Because too many treats lead to a fat cat, your goal is to gradually wean her off the food rewards and make her settle for emotional ones such as a “good kitty,” a toss of her fuzzy ball, or a scratch under the chin.

Once your cat is displaying the desired behaviour reliably, you can start cutting back on food. Give her treats three out of every four times she does the behaviour, then reduce it to about half the time, then about a third of the time and so on, until you’re only rewarding her occasionally with a treat.

Continue the praise and non-food rewards. Your cat will learn that if she keeps offering desired behaviours, eventually she’ll get what she wants—your praise and an occasional treat.

Don’t try this at home

There are a couple of things you shouldn’t do while training.

• Don’t force a behaviour. Don’t pick your cat up and take her to the scratching post or litter box to get her to use them. She won’t understand what you’re doing and will likely get frightened and run away.


• Don’t turn your cat into a beggar. Use treats only for training. If you give your cat a treat every time she paws you, she’ll quickly learn that pawing is equal to a treat and won’t leave you alone.

(The article is contributed by Humane Society of the United States (HSUS). Established in 1954, HSUS seeks a humane and sustainable world for all animals; www.hsus.org)

Mischievous Cat? He just might be bored

Mr. Whiskers has done it again: He’s knocked over the potted plants, batted belongings off the dresser and chased people around the house. Cats like Mr. Whiskers aren’t just rebellious. Sometimes, they’re just bored.

Signs of boredom

Those who share their home with a cat might be under the impression that their companion lolls about the house all day, doing nothing at all. On the contrary, cats–for the most part–are more inclined to spend their days playing.

If they’re bored, they might meow, chase or pester, escape or engage in repetitive behaviour like knocking objects off shelves. They entertain themselves and might think it’s fun to be destructive, especially when that behaviour attracts their person’s attention.

It’s important–even when the cat knocks over the plant that was just repotted–not to punish him. After ensuring he has a clean bill of health, assess his needs at home, paying close attention to his personality, which will give hints to his mental and physical needs. Younger or more social cats usually require more stimulation than older or shy cats.

Banish boredom

Using a toy or game to play with a cat usually helps him release his energy. Cats have a natural prey drive and love testing their pouncing, stalking or chasing skills. Even a paper grocery type sack (handles removed) makes for a fun game of hide-and-seek.

Some cats will even fetch a ball if thrown to them, and positive reinforcement can be used to teach cats tricks.

Banishing kitty boredom can be as simple as setting up a bird feeder outside a window. For cats who enjoy climbing, a tall scratching post with perches could do the trick.

It can be a challenge to figure out which activity any cat likes best, but–above all–don’t force him to do something he doesn’t want to do. Find an activity or toy that he already enjoys. He’ll be less likely to be bored and destructive if he has playtime scheduled with his favourite person.

Havana Brown: beautiful cat you can love and admire!

Beautiful brown coat with striking emerald green eyes…Havana Brown is an intelligent cat… a perfect kitty for your home!

My gracious Havana Browns are the best buddies I have; she often helps me while I’m at my computer (they are quite gifted) and you won’t have to worry about getting cold while lying on the couch, as they are excellent substitutes for a blanket. However, they consider ‘me’ their favourite pillow…nevertheless they are the best companions I have. This is a perfect breed for someone who is looking for an interactive, intelligent, and extraordinarily beautiful cat to love and admire. 

Beautiful me

The most striking characteristics of Havana Brown are their beautiful brown fur and their brilliant emerald green eyes. The head of the English ‘Havana Brown’ has a long straight line from the top of the head to the tip of the nose whereas the head of the American ‘Havana Brown’ has a distinctive “stop” at the level of the eyes. The English Havana Brown has ears that are strikingly large, pointed, and set wide at the base as opposed to the ears of the American Havana Brown which are large, round-tipped, cupped at the base, and tilted forward. The English Havana also has a long neck and a tubular body like a Siamese or Oriental Shorthair whereas the American Havana Brown has a medium neck and a medium muscular body type.

My persona…the best

This gentle breed has a charming personality and they quietly demand attention and affection from their people. One of my Havanas likes to play fetch and their inquisitive nature makes them so pleasurable to watch. Their favourite place is your lap or close by as this breed does not like to be left alone. The best way to describe their personality would be as “dog like” because they are very interactive with people and truly depend on human companionship. If you are a busy professional who spends lots of time away from home for days at a time, perhaps you should consider a different breed. I cannot overemphasize how dependant they are on their people for companionship and they will not thrive if left alone for extended periods of time. 

They are moderately active which is a definite plus and means you won’t have to child-proof your home or put away all your breakables. Their voice is softer than a Siamese yet has a deeper resonance than most breeds which is very pleasing to the ear and they usually aren’t talkative unless it’s dinner time.

Having a second cat is highly recommended for this breed. By having a feline companion, it helps to ensure they are never lonely and they get the proper exercise and play.

I am low-maintenance

Havana Browns are very low maintenance. All they need are their humans for love and companionship and the company of a second feline. Very little grooming is needed because this is a shorthair breed. A weekly brushing will do very well.

Keeping such a rare treasure indoors, neutering or spaying and providing acceptable surfaces (e.g. scratching posts) for the natural behaviour of scratching (we disapprove of declawing or tendonectomy surgery) are essential elements for maintaining a healthy, long and joyful life.

The Napoleon Cat

An excellent combo of beauty and heart–it’s hard to resist these amazingly wonderful little cats!

Napoleon…best of two breeds

The Napoleon cat breed was originally conceived by Joe Smith by cross breeding between the Munchkin breed and Persian breed group (Persian, Himalayan and Exotic Shorthair). That’s the reason why Napoleons possess the very best characteristics of both the breeds.

Beautiful and elegant

Napoleons are beautiful medium-sized cats with round heads, big round expressive eyes and strong cobby bodies. Standard Napoleons have short legs while non-standard ones have regular length legs. Although the short legs are one of the key trademarks of a Napoleon breed, all litters have both long and short-legged kittens due to the genetics involved. Non-standard Napoleons have all the wonderful characteristics of their short-legged littermates, except the short legs.

Though all Napoleon breeds have a similar body structure, their coats come in a range of varieties. They can have coats of any lengths, from very short to very long. The texture also varies a great deal. Their colours come in a rainbow as any colour of cat can be found among them.

Excellent persona

Having amazing personalities, Napoleons are friendly and affectionate cats with a playful yet relaxed demeanour. Napoleons are wonderful cats to share your home with. They are always seeking attention and will frequently follow you around from room to room just to be near you. They are excellent cats for families with small children as well, due to their laid back temperament. Having visitors over with a Napoleon is no problem unless the guests do not like cats!

Napoleons will be the first to greet a visitor at the door and be sure to make good friend with them before they leave. Since they are highly sociable, whenever you are out for a long time, it is highly recommended that there must be another cat or a dog to keep them company in your absence. You will also want to make room form them in your bed as Napoleons love to curl up and sleep with you.

Brush them beautiful

Most Napoleons have fairly low maintenance coats. However, a good regular brushing is always important to keep them beautiful and knot free.

Living with them…nice and easy

Along with their extraordinary beauty and excellent dispositions, Napoleons are easy cats to live with and care for. They are healthy cats and generally do not require any extra work or special care than any average cat does. Simply provide them with their basic needs along with a good cat tree, some entertaining toys and a warm lap to curl up in and you will have a friend for life.

(Kristin DuBois, owner of Blue Skies Cattery has been involved with breeding of Napoleons for more than three years. He is continuously striving to produce the best Napoleon breeds.)

The Turkish Van Cat: the swimming cat

Muscular long body, silky coat, amber eyes – these sensational beauties are none other than the Turkish Van Cat. They have a passion for swimming, no doubt, these silky coated beauties invade the hearts of all kitty lovers.

Journey down the lane...

The Turkish (semi) longhair cat is probably one of the oldest domesticated cats. It is said that he is the ancestor of all other longhair breeds. There exist images of cats with ring plumed tails on Urartu jewellery (Urartu Kingdom: 1000–585 BC) and on a Roman shield (occupation Romans classic Armenia: 75–387 AD). Pictures have also been noted in friezes on the walls of ancient Armenian churches in the Lake Van area.

The silky coated beauties…

The Turkish Van is a solid built cat. He has a muscular long body with full chest and shoulders. Males tend to be much larger than females. Their head is broad, wide, modified wedge with rounded contours and high cheekbones. The ears are wide at the base and large in size. The eyes are almond shaped and can be amber, blue or odd eyed (one amber and one blue eye).

The coat is fine and silky and lies flat. There is no undercoat, but there are seasonal differences. In summer, only the tail shows that he is a longhair cat. The tail is thick and muscular.

There are Turkish Vans with and without a “Van pattern.” The first Vans in the Cat Fancy had two coloured spots on their head and a coloured tail. Small patches of colour on body and legs can also be seen. All registries recognise the following colours for the Van pattern combined with white: red, black, creme, blue, also as tabby, tortie and torbie. As seen in other breeds, kittens can have some colour.

Sweet temperament…

Turkish Vans are intelligent, energetic, loyal, and friendly. They are very adroit at opening doors, cupboards and windows, especially if it will lead to food. Many play fetch and carry like Retrievers. They love to race around the house and like to sit on heights and leap onto your shoulders. They are curious and like to investigate everything. They get along great with other cats and dogs, but want to be the boss. They are people oriented and can adjust to indoor living, but require periods of exercise to release pent-up energy. Most Vans are fascinated by running water, as in the fountain type drink well.

Easy upkeep…

Grooming a Van is simple. His coat requires only a quick comb through every week and occasional bath is needed. Because he has no woolly undercoat, a Van’s coat does not mat. He doesn’t need a special diet. You can give him commercial wet and dry food, which can even be combined with fresh meat or cooked fish or chicken.

The birth of kittens is most of the time without complications. The average litter exists of 4 kittens and they are usually good doers. There are not breed specific health problems known.

(Joyce Ouderkerk is a breeder of Turkish Van cats since 1996. She is also a member of TICA Turkish Van breed committee; vicepresident of Turkish Van Cat Connection; and secretary of Turkse Raskattenvereniging Lokum –Dutch Turkish breeds club.)