Introducing a New Cat to Other Pets

Wouldn’t it be nice if all it took to introduce a new cat to your resident pet were a brief handshake and a couple of “HELLO, My Name is...” nametags? But, since we’re dealing with cats, not people, it’s just not that simple, so you’ll need to have some realistic expectations.

Realistic expectations

First, it’s recognising and accepting that you can’t force your pets to like each other. We don’t have a crystal ball to predict whether or not your pets will be friends, but we do have techniques for you to use to increase your chances of success. Most importantly, choose a cat with a similar personality and activity level. For example, an older cat or dog might not appreciate the antics of a kitten.

You need to move slowly during the introduction process to increase your chances for success. You mustn’t throw your pets together in a sink-or-swim situation and hope they’ll work it out.

The nature of cats

Cats are territorial, and in general they don’t like to share. A cat who’s unhappy about a newcomer may express her displeasure by fighting with the other pet and marking territory (peeing on the floor, wall, objects).

Cats also dislike change, and a new cat in the house is a huge change. These two character traits mean you could have a tough (but not impassable) road ahead.

Being social

Some cats are more social than other cats. For example, an eight-year-old cat who has never been around other animals might never learn to share her territory (and her people) with other pets in the household. But an eight-week-old kitten separated from her mom and littermates for the first time might be glad to have a cat or dog companion.

All of this means that your current pet and your new cat need to be introduced very slowly so they can get used to each other before a face-to-face meeting. Slow introductions help prevent fearful or aggressive behaviour from developing. Below are some guidelines to help make the introductions go smoothly.

Be aware that the introduction process can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks, or even a few months in extreme cases. Be patient.

Confinement

To allow time for the newcomer to adjust to you and her new situation, keep her in a small room with her litter box, food, water, scratching post, toys and a bed for several days to a week.

• Feed your resident pets and the newcomer on each side of the door to this room, so that they associate something enjoyable (eating!) with each other’s smells. Don’t put the food so close to the door that the animals are too upset by each other’s presence to eat.


• Gradually move the dishes closer to the door until your pets can eat calmly while standing directly on either side of the door.


• Try to get your pets to interact with a toy. Tie a toy to each end of a string, then place it so there’s a toy on either side of the door. Hopefully, they’ll start batting the toys around and maybe even batting paws.


• Be sure to spend plenty of time with your new kitty in her room, but don’t ignore your resident cat.

The old switcheroo

To animals, smells are far more important than appearances, so you want to get your pets used to each other’s scent before they meet face-to-face.

• Swap the blankets or beds the cats use or gently rub a washcloth on one cat’s cheeks and put it underneath the food dish of another. If there are more than two animals in the house, do the same for each animal.


• When the pets finally do meet, at least their scents will be familiar.


• Once your new cat is using her litter box and eating regularly while confined, let her have free time in the house while confining your other pets to the new cat’s room. It’s best to introduce your new cat to a room or two at a time and increase her access to other rooms over a few days. This switch provides another way for them to experience each other’s scents without a face-to-face meeting. It also allows the newcomer to get familiar with her new surroundings without the other animals frightening her.


• You can do this several times a day, but only when you’re home to supervise. If you have to leave the house, put your new kitty back in her room.


• Next, after you’ve returned the cats to their designated parts of the house, use two doorstops to prop open the dividing door just enough to allow the animals to see each other.


• Repeat the whole process over a period of days—supervised, of course.

Slow and steady win the race

It’s better to introduce your pets to each other gradually so that neither animal becomes afraid or aggressive. Once the cats are face to face, though, there will be some kinks for them to work out.

If you’re really lucky (and your cats are inclined), they may do some mutual sniffing and grooming, and you’re on your way to success. They may sit and stare at each other. You can provide distraction by dangling toys in front of them at the same time. This may encourage them to play together.

They might sniff each other, hiss, and walk away. That’s to be expected. This may go on for a few days or so, and then you’ll probably find them both sleeping on your bed.

Break it up

If you’re not so lucky, they may be very stressed. Fortunately, they may only posture and make a lot of noise. But, as soon as there are signs of increasing aggression (flattened ears, growling, spitting, crouching), make a loud noise by clapping your hands or throw a pillow nearby to distract them. If the standoff continues, very carefully herd them into separate parts of the house to calm down. This could take up to 24 hours and the cats may take out their stress on you.

Be careful

If the cats fight repeatedly, you may need to start the introduction process all over again and consider getting advice from a vet or animal behaviourist.

Note: Never try to break up a cat fight by picking one up; you’re bound to get hurt.

Reducing tension

There are other things you can do to help ease tension between feline roommates.

• Have your cats examined by your vet before introductions to make sure they’re all healthy.


• Have one litter box per cat plus an extra one.


• Try to keep your resident pets’ routine as close to what it was before the newcomer’s arrival.


• Make sure all cats have a ‘safe’ place to escape to.

(This article is contributed by Humane Society of the United States (HSUS). Established in 1954, HSUS seeks a humane and sustainable world for all animals; www.hsus.org)

Ask the Expert..Nov Dec 11

Dr KG Umesh (MVSc, MSc (UK)) is a Postgraduate in Clinical Medicine. He is working for WALTHAM as Regional Associate for South Asia.

Q: I have three cats - the problem I have is that they keep peeing everywhere - how do I stop this? How do I get them used to using the litter box?
– Shanaz Kader, Mumbai

Dr KG Umesh: Cats are naturally clean animals, for whom litter tray training is usually a relatively simple procedure. Kittens should start to use a litter tray as soon as possible. Ideally, the day that you bring your new kitten or cat home, you should make her aware of the location of the litter tray. The litter tray should be positioned in a quiet area of the house so that the cat may use it in private. The tray should not be sited near the cat’s feeding bowls, since cats do not like to soil the area near their food. It is best to provide a plastic litter tray which sides are not too deep, so that the kitten may easily get in and out, but will provide an adequate depth of litter in which she may bury her faeces. As the kitten grows up, the litter tray will need to be increasingly deeper. This will not only ensure that the litter is not scratched everywhere when the faeces is buried, but also that the cat does not ‘miss’ the tray when urinating.

Young kittens will often want to urinate and defecate when they wake up and after they have eaten. When litter training kittens, it is important to place them on the litter tray at these times and reward them for eliminating in the appropriate place. You will soon know when your cat is looking for a suitable place to use as a toilet, since she will start sniffing, scratching and begin to crouch, try to catch her and place her in the litter tray at this point. If your cat has a little ‘accident,’ clean up the soiled area, best with a non-ammonia based product, since your cat may perceive the smell of ammonia to be similar to urine.

Soiled litter should be removed at least once a day, ideally faeces should be removed as soon as you discover them. At least once a week the litter tray should be completely changed and the tray thoroughly cleaned and disinfected.

If none of the above solves the problem of your cat soiling in inappropriate places, you should have your cat checked by a veterinarian to ensure that the problem is not due to an underlying medical condition.

Ask the Expert..Sep Oct 11

Dr KG Umesh (MVSc, MSc (UK)) is a Postgraduate in Clinical Medicine. He is working for WALTHAM as Regional Associate for South Asia.

Q: My cat Bella gets wax frequently and keeps scratching her ears with her paws. There seem to be some small lumps inside her ears. Please help.
– Bhavya Mohan, Mumbai

Dr KG Umesh: Otitis externa (inflammation of ear canal) is a complex disease process involving primary, predisposing and perpetuating causes. The first goal of treating otitis externa is to discover and treat the primary cause. Identifying and treating/eliminating these causes is the key to resolving the condition. Foreign bodies and larger parasites, such as ticks, can often simply be removed under tranquilization or general anaesthesia. Ear mites can be treated with one of many commercially available products and appropriate treatment of endocrine and immune-mediated disorders help to resolve associated otitis. Management of allergic diseases, although sometimes difficult, also helps resolve associated otitis. Tumours and growths can be surgically removed. Perpetuating causes of otitis are the next concern for treatment. Infection, excessive exudates and inflammation of the canal are addressed through various ear cleaning protocols, topical therapies, and systemic therapies-often in combination. Finally, it is important to evaluate and manage or eliminate potential predisposing factors.

Charming Exotic Shorthair!

There is no one comparable to an Exotic Shorthair... they have a sweet teddy bear look, a docile and loving temperament and are much easier to maintain and groom.

The Lazy Man’s Persians…

Aptly termed as Lazy Man’s Persians, Exotic Shorthairs were bred to make a perfect pet for people who are looking for the laid back personality and their look, minus the grooming hassles. Their short, dense coat is very easy to maintain as against the long flowing coat of the Persians.

Historical facts…

The story of the origin of Exotic Shorthairs unfolded with American breeders who crossbred Persians in an attempt to strengthen their types in the early 1960s. But the resulting kittens were unique in appearance, rather different from what they expected. Looks of the kittens were quite appealing to the breeders who eventually decided to call them Exotic Shorthair.

Exotic look…

Like Persians, Exotic Shorthairs have a short compact body and large round head. They have a short but broad muzzle. Large round eyes, small nose and ears and sweet expression complete their adorable look. They have a short thick tail, which is carried low. Their coat is short, dense and fluffy. They can be found in many colours…in fact all colours of the rainbow and varied patterns!

Exotic persona…

They are extremely affectionate and win hearts wherever they go. Like Persians, they are gentle and well-mannered. They love to get attention…will follow you from room to room… and will hug you when you pick them up. They get on well with children and other pets. The Exotic Shorthair is an ideal breed who are quite, sweet and peaceful.

Love to play…

These playful cats love all types of games like chasing paper balls or playing with a toy. They are a real joy to be around! It is her easy-going nature that makes them so charming.

Simple care…

They are less-maintenance breed and need simple grooming routine like brushing the coat and wiping the eyes.

In all, Exotic Shorthairs bring cheer to a household…they are a bundle of good looks, sweet temperament and easy disposition.

(The author runs the cattery My Exotic Furs in New Jersey and can be reached at www.myexoticfurs.com)

Wool sucking: feline obsessive-compulsive disorder

We all love cuddling our balls of fur, giving them warm hugs, showing how much we care for them. But imagine if they start chewing our sweaters while we are expressing our love...well, a bit inconvenient. This strange behavior when they chew on sweaters, towels, blankets or even carpets is commonly called wool sucking... here’s more info about the same.

Cravings to chew...

• The causes of this behavior are not well understood, but it is mostly seen in oriental breeds (Siamese and Burmese cats).


• Some kittens are weaned early resulting in suckling deprivation and such cats when grow up mostly exhibit this habit.


• It has also found that odor of lanolin in wool is similar to the odor of the fur around the nipples of the kitten’s mother, which contributes to this inappropriate behaviour.


• Anxiety and stress also contributes to this behaviour to some extent.

Remediation...a better solution

• The best solution is to keep ‘Chews’ out of reach, keep sweaters etc in closet or at a place, where kitties cannot reach...to chew on.


• If there’s a favourite spot to chew on...spray it with a bitter spray or apply anxious-tasting substances such as cologne, pepper sauce or a commercial repellant to these objects...once bitten twice shy...this will work wonders.


• Leave kittens with mother for at least twelve weeks.


• Provide other things for the cat to chew on, such as a sock with a ball in it or a cat toy.


• Keep a vigil on your cat and if found sucking, immediately use trusty water pistol to shoo her way.


• Consult your veterinarian for a solution and medication...if required.

Respond...straightaway

In some cats, the sucking begins with wool, but then progresses to other available materials such as cotton or even plastic. The behaviour most often begins at puberty; if it is not cured at the initial stages, sometimes it might prove fatal, as they may swallow non-food items, such as plastic or fabric, which could lead to an intestinal obstruction or serious digestive illness. It is therefore essential to get rid of the habit at its earliest.

(Dr. Deepa Katyal, MVSC (Mumbai), MVSt (Australia) is a veterinary practitioner at Chembur, Mumbai. She is CEO of K-9 Klub for dog lovers. She can be contacted at 9819742557.)

Preventing common kitty problems

We all know that prevention is better than cure. Here are a few ways to prevent common problems in your furry felines.

We cannot keep our cats safe and well all the time, but a little forethought can help minimise the risks to which they are exposed. Our cats cannot understand what these are. So, it is up to us to think about how we take care of them and to keep them as healthy and well protected as we possibly can.

Acute renal failure

Some cases of acute renal failure can be prevented by removing the causes from your home. Easter lilies and some other similar plants are toxic to cats and even a sprinkling of pollen licked off the fur can be enough to cause problems. Make it known to your loved ones that you prefer to be given other types of flowers. Antifreeze can also cause renal failure and some cats seem attracted to its smell, so avoid having it in your house or garage if possible, or at least keep it safely shut away. If any antifreeze is spilled, then clean it up properly.

Urinary tract obstruction and bladder stones

These conditions may be triggered and can certainly be exacerbated by cats having an insufficient intake of liquids. So, ensure that there is always a plentiful supply of fresh, clean drinking water for your kitty. You can encourage cats to drink by putting additional water bowls around the house, using drinking fountains and adding ice cubes to the water bowls. Providing drinks other than water as occasional treats can also help increase the liquids intake, but these should only be suitable drinks, such as cat milk, spring water from a can of tuna (not brine as it is too salty), or a little homemade meat or fish stock with no salt. Adding water to their food can also be useful with cats who seem to dislike drinking.

Foreign body ingestion

Many cats become seriously ill or die each year from this but it can be avoided. Sharp objects may stick in the throat, but it is more common to find foreign bodies stuck in the stomach or small intestine. If an object such as a toy of teat from a baby’s bottle is swallowed and cannot pass through the cat’s digestive system, it can cause a blockage. Also pieces of thread, string or shoelaces can cause problems if they trail through the intestines and cause them to fold over or knot up. Be aware of such kind of things that could cause problems and do not allow them to be left lying around. Make sure sewing kits and small objects are not left in accessible places, especially when playful kittens are running about. Keep an eye on your cats’ behaviour and if they enjoy chewing toys, make sure you throw away any that come apart. If you see a cat swallow anything and then start vomiting, rush to a vet immediately.

Gingivitis and tooth loss

It is known that gingivitis in cats can be significantly exacerbated by other conditions, so keeping your cat generally healthy is a good first step in preventing it. However, any cat can be affected and avoiding dental plaque and tartar is an important preventative measure. Too much soft sticky food can lead to the development of plaque and tartar and this can be minimised by feeding dry food, especially large kibbles which need to be bitten before the cat swallows them. There are also treat foods available to help keep teeth clean, including special cat treats as well as foods such as jerky, or dried (unsalted) fish. Large chunks of meat such as ‘ham ends’ can also be given. Some owners give raw chicken wings, but cooked bones should never be given as they can splinter.

(Anthony Nichols has been showing cats for about 20 years, starting with non-pedigrees, and breeding for about ten years. He has bred Devon Rex and Singapuras, but mainly focuses on breeding LaPerms in a range of colours, particularly the reds, creams, torties, chocolates and colourpoints).

Caring for Your Cat: The Top Ten Essentials

Although your cat may act independent and be litter-trained, he still counts on you to provide him with food, water, safe shelter, regular veterinary care, companionship, and more. Take care of these ten essentials, and you’ll be guaranteed to develop a rewarding relationship with your feline companion.

1. Outfit your cat with a collar and ID tag that includes your name, address, and telephone number. No matter how careful you are, there’s a chance your companion may slip out the door—an ID tag greatly increases the chance that your cat will be returned home safely. 
   
   


2. Follow local cat registration laws. Licensing, a registration and identification system administered by some local governments protects both cats and people in the community. 
   
   


3. Keep your cat indoors. Keeping your cat safely confined at all times is best for you, your pet, and your community. 
   
   


4. Take your cat to the veterinarian for regular check-ups. If you do not have a veterinarian, ask your local animal shelter or a pet-owning friend for a referral. 
   
   


5. Spay or neuter your pet. This will keep her healthier and will reduce the problem of cat overpopulation. 
   
   


6. Give your cat a nutritionally balanced diet, including constant access to fresh water. Ask your veterinarian for advice on what and how often to feed your pet. 
   
   


7. Train your cat to refrain from undesirable behaviours such as scratching furniture and jumping on countertops. Contrary to popular belief, cats can be trained with a bit of patience, effort, and understanding on your part. 
   
   


8. Groom your cat often to keep her coat healthy, soft, and shiny. Although it is especially important to brush long-haired cats to prevent their hair from matting, even short-haired felines need to be groomed to remove as much loose hair as possible. When cats groom themselves, they ingest a great deal of hair, which often leads to hairballs. 
   
   


9. Set aside time to play with your cat. While cats do not need the same level of exercise that dogs do, enjoying regular play sessions with your pet will provide him with the physical exercise and mental stimulation he needs, as well as strengthen the bond you share. 
   
   


10. Be loyal to and patient with your cat. Make sure the expectations you have of your companion are reasonable and remember that the vast majority of behaviour problems can be solved. If you are struggling with your pet’s behaviour, contact your veterinarian or local animal shelter for advice, and check out the HSUS’s Pets for Life campaign information.

(This article is contributed by Humane Society of the United States (HSUS), the nation’s largest and most effective animal protection organization. Established in 1954, HSUS seeks a humane and sustainable world for all animals; www.hsus.org)