Art of nail clipping...

Some cats disappear as soon as they see you with the nail clippers! Not any more...here’s how to make nail clipping a pleasure, not a chore.

Start young

Kittens should be introduced to nail clipping when they are young and in this way, they will become accustomed to having their nails clipped on a regular basis and not try to hide away.

Quiet atmosphere

Nail clipping should be done in a quiet and calm atmosphere and the cat should be handled gently but securely on your lap with as few distractions as possible.

Build up the rapport

It is a good idea to take one paw at a time and gently massage the paw for a very short period of time. Don’t squeeze, don’t pull or pinch. Most cats will settle down and not resist their pet parent who has always been kind to them. Always speak calmly and lovingly to your cat during the nail clipping procedure and this should help to settle her down.

Spring into action

The cat should sit on your lap and be facing away from you. Take one of her toes in your hand, massage and press the pad until the nail extends. Check how much nail needs to be clipped and where ‘The Quick’ begins. Trim only the sharp tip of the nail and continue on until all nails have been clipped. Start slowly and never rush cutting your cat’s nails so you do not make any mistakes. Once all nails have been cut, use an emery board to smooth off the rough end of the nail. Trimming nails every 10-14 days should be enough.

Word of caution

The pink part of the cat’s nail called ‘The Quick’ is where the nerves and blood vessels are. Do not cut into this very sensitive area. Snip only the white part of the claw. It is far better to be cautious and only clip a small portion of the nail rather than clipping too much and cause bleeding of the pink area of the nail. A styptic powder or stick (available from your veterinarian) is worth having on hand to stop any bleeding. If you have any problems, then have your veterinarian or groomer to do this for you.

Tips to follow

If your cat resists and becomes angry, never raise your voice or growl at her. She won’t forget that and you will always have problems. Sometimes it is easier to only trim 3-4 nails at a time and then trim the remaining nails at a later time. Provide your cat with a scratching post and she will help to keep her nails smooth in between clipping.

(Joan E Henderson is based in Australia and she has judged furry felines in many other countries including USA, Bermuda, Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong, Philippines and New Zealand).

Snowshoes: kittens for life!

Snowshoe cats are like snowflakes, no two are the same; they vary in their own unique patterns and personalities.

The alluring looks…

[caption id="attachment_4710" align="alignright" width="300"] Snowshoe Cats[/caption]

The Snowshoe’s coat is very silky, with a bounce that’s close lying and short. All Snowshoes have beautiful blue eyes and white feet, except the colour points who do not have any white on them at all. The colour point pattern Snowshoes resemble the old style Siamese in looks. The most preferred pattern is white mitts and inverted ‘V’ on the face with coloured ears and tail, giving the distinctive snowshoe look. You can get Snowshoes in all varieties of Siamese colours, including tortie and tabby Snowshoes.

Their expected lifespan is 12-15 years. Males can be quite a bit bigger than the females and weigh around 5 kg.

Lovely personality…

Snowshoe cats are naturally assertive and confident cats and are true people pleasers. When bred in the right circumstances and socialised well, they are very adaptable cats who love change. Snowshoes are very intelligent cats and like to make eye contact. They use a wide variety of different sounds to communicate and will happily talk to you, although some are quieter than others. They have softer voices than Siamese with a gentle melodic voice.

Living with them…

Snowshoes require very little grooming and love water, so enjoy a good bath every now and then. Health of the Snowshoe cat is considered very good, with little or no problems. What’s more? They thrive in busy homes and love families, other cats and children. They can be clicker trained and need quite a lot of exercise, so access to a secure garden or walk out on a harness is recommended. Snowshoe cats feel secure with set boundaries and will try to get their way especially during the growing up phase. They love lots of interaction and play and are pretty much kittens for life. Snowshoes have a laid back attitude and will happily flop in your arms for a cuddle.

To live with a Snowshoe Cat, expect to be accompanied everywhere you go and any changes will be fully investigated. Snowshoes have a ‘need to be touched attitude’ and love interactions with people and animals alike. If left on their own, they can get mischievous, but another Snowshoe or lots of games usually keep the Snowshoe occupied. They are very social and make wonderful companion cats.

(Kelly Cruse of Destrier Snowshoe Cats Cattery is based in the UK and Secretary for Snowshoe Cat Club.)

Cats & Kittens Nov Dec 2012 Issue

+ Snowshoes: kittens for life!
+ The purrfect kitten
+ Ask the Expert..
+ Purrfect relocation planning !
+ Art of nail clipping...

Cats & Kittens Sep Oct 2012 Issue

+ Charming Singapuras!
+ Caring for the disabled kitties…
+ Ask the Expert..
+ Introduction old to new
+ Adoption camp for fantastic felines!
+ Kitty and kiddie the amazing duo
+ Pause for paws...

Pause for paws...

Here’s how to heal your kitty’s cracked heels and sore paw pads.

Paw woes...

• If you have a cat who goes outdoors, she can often hurt her paws on a rough stone or wire if they jump over a fence.


• Indoor cats can also damage their paw pads by jumping on sharp objects, chewing the pads and between toes if they are left alone too long and become stressed or accidently damaging them by playing with a child’s toy made of wood that is a little splintered.


• Any contact with hot water can lead to blistering and painful paw pads.

Paw healing...

• A scraped and sore paw pad can be healed by using a baby’s sock that is tied on with a flat bandage. Do not use cord or you can cut off the circulation by tying it too tight. Remove the sock every few hours to make sure the pad is healing – never leave it on for too long as infection can occur.


• If a paw pad is bleeding, wrap a bandage fairly tight around the whole foot. It is not necessary to use a tourniquet unless there is a great deal of blood gushing out. In that case, taking your cat to the veterinarian is very wise so he can check if a blood vessel has been damaged. Tourniquets can be quite dangerous unless loosened every 15-20 minutes to relieve the pressure.


• Cracked and sore paw pads can be soothed by gently rubbing in cod-liver oil. The cat will probably lick the oil off but it won’t harm him. Just keep a close eye on your cat and replace the cod-liver oil on a regular basis for 2-3 days to help soften the pad. The best idea is to be alert to your cat and regularly check your cat’s paw pads, legs, ears and tail as she can get up to all sorts of mischief and need attention.

(Joan E Henderson is based in Australia and she has judged furry felines in many other countries including USA, Bermuda, Malaysia, South Africa, Hong Kong, Philippines and New Zealand).

Introduction old to new

Your older kitty might live peacefully with other pet companions in the house. But there is no surety about him happily accepting a new member to the family. Here’s some extra attention which your older cat will require when a new kitty comes home.

First sight…

In their first meeting, two feline buddies get to know each other by smells. So, your older cat in the house will spend a lot of time sniffing the new or young kitty member. And the kitten will do the same. But if your older cat purrs or hisses curiously and seems uncomfortable, it would be wise to wait for a few more days.

Steady adjustment…

Be sure first that your older cat is ready, then introduce him to the young kitty by widely opening the door of the room where the kitten stays as they can see and smell each other freely. You should be present to supervise their meeting. Keep the door open for short periods of time until they become adjusted to looking at each other without becoming upset. Though it takes several days, this procedure will eventually be successful.

Take it easy…

You shouldn’t force the two furry buddies get closer. Let them decide whether to stay closer or far. Repeat the short introduction as much as you can until the two cats are comfortable to stay in the same room. Take it easy, don’t push them for instant friendship!

A common space…

Your older cat will like to assure that the newcomer kitty will not take over his territory. For example, if the older one has his favourite sleeping place, don’t let the young kitten use it. Provide the young fellow separate corner and toys. Always keep in mind that animals are possessive of their food, feeding dishes and sleeping corners.

Litter pans…

Providing two separate litter pans to your young and older kitties will help prevent the adult cat from starting to soil in inappropriate areas as an act of aggression.

Forever friends…

It may take quite a few days or months for the two kitties to become close friends who are totally comfortable with each other. But usually over time, most of the kitties find a workable relationship, even if they are still not best friends!

Before home-coming

 

• Let your vet examine the kitten to make sure she's parasite-free.


• Make sure all their vaccinations are current.


• Neuter or spay to diminish aggression,especially the kitten at appropriate age.

 

 

 

Ask the Expert.. Nov Dec 2012

Dr KG Umesh (MVSc, MSc (UK)) is a Postgraduate in Clinical Medicine. He is working for WALTHAM as Regional Associate for South Asia.

Q: My two male Persians get into ego hassles and start battling each other. How do we make them more cordial

[caption id="attachment_8395" align="alignright" width="250"] Billu[/caption]

to each other and if they get in an aggressive situation- how do we separate them?
- R Ramesh, Mysore

Dr KG Umesh: Cats are territorial creatures and they do like to go outdoors to establish a territory in relation to neighbouring cats. This is far more important for toms (male cats) than it is for queens (female cats). Tom cats may establish a territory which is 10 times larger than that of queens. The territory of a domestic cat will be centred on his own home-base and he will use smells, sounds, scratches and other marks to define the boundaries. The territory of a cat only remains fixed for as long as the cat dominates the area - if another cat arrives on the scene, there may be a confrontation, boundaries may have to be redrawn, and life goes on. Treatment for aggression between cats living in the same household requires separation when supervision is not possible. Treating intercat aggression takes time (sometimes months), so, patience is a necessity. The aggressor is banished to a less desirable location (for example, spare room) while the victim is allowed free range or access to favourite locations. The aggressor can be fitted with a harness or collar and bells, allowing both victim and pet parent to hear the aggressor at all times. At the first sign of aggression, the aggressor should be startled using the mildest stimulus necessary. The stimulus (for example, calling his name) used to startle the aggressor is meant to interrupt and distract but not to terrify the cat, as fear can increase aggression. Reintroduction is gradual and supervised at all times, with you vigilant during these sessions. It is also important to provide strictly indoor cats with a stimulating environment that includes playing and searching opportunities, hiding places, and high perched resting areas. Neutering and medications to controlling undesired behaviours are other options.